Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver
Moving into the Interior:
Lots of work to do in here. Some cosmetic, some repairs, and some upgrades. Once again, I'm doing this project in phases. I complete an area, get it pretty much back together and done before I move to another area. The Interior is going to be two parts.
- IP Panel and doors.(done 9/9)
- Repair air cond heater door actuators. Requires the IP to be out for access. (done 5/8)
- Install Typhoon electric OSRM and wiring. (done)
- Install RKE and wiring. (done)
- Replace Electric window motors. (done)
- Replace door belt moldings and window run channels. (done)
- Clean and reinstall IP with all the missing fasteners found and installed. (done 5/8)
- Rebuild / repair steering column. Repair loose bowl bolts. Ign switch, lower bearing, center wheel mod (Astro Steering Shaft), repair horn contact, fix turn sig cancel. (done 5/9)
- Inst cluster clean and recondition. Replace all 'dark' bulbs, repaint needles, polish lens. (done)
Phase 2
- Seats, carpet, console, rear trim and headliner.
- Recover headliner
- Recondition driver's seat cushion. Install NOS seat cover (Thanks Jeff).
- Install used good condition used carpet set (Thanks FrankenSy).
- Clean and install all trim.
Here it was this morning: Note how dirty and dusty this thing is. 20 years in the Desert.
Today I worked on the window run channels. I purchased replacement rubber from Rockauto. By the end of the day I was unimpressed with the quality. The rubber is hand-trimmed. The guy got it wrong. If it had been raw, and up to the installer (me) to cut it to fit, it would have been better. I'll point this out in the pics.
Here's the problem. Old run channel is ripped, and the glass falls out:
There are three screws buried in the channel. 2 at the rear, one at the front.
The passenger side must have been in the sun all these years. It came out in pieces. It had been baked. I've never seen one this brittle before:
These metal reinforcements need to be transferred to the new rubber. Straighten the 'points' on the back, and pull the metal out. Re-straighten the points to being very straight, so they don't bend over when you push them through the new rubber.:
These windows in the rubber were cut about 1/2" too high. These are where you index the installation of the metal from. Center the metal in the window, and Push a point through being sure it's on center.
There's a rib on the rubber to guide you. Apply pressure and watch the rubber bulge. If it's not on center, adjust accordingly, and push it through when centered. Pull on the point with needle nose to compress the rubber, and bend it over:
The cut-aways for the belt line molding were too low (OK) on the LH side, so I cut them higher with a razor knife. The cutouts on the RH side were 1/2" too high. Pissed me off.
RH side. I'll find a piece and glue it in. The Chinaman that cut it too high doesn't have to live with the crappy fit.
All in all, this was one of the fussiest single projects I've done on a SyTy. So far, only prepping and painting cladding is worse. When I put the assembly in the door, the screws missed lining up by 3/4 of an inch, because I located off the pre-cut windows in the rubber. This was a real PITA to keep realigning and pushing the points through to adjust the height of the metal. In hindsight, I'd do one thing differently. I would put some masking tape on the door outside of the rubber, and mark the location of the screw holes. Then insert the rubber with NO metal. Using the marks as a guide, I'd punch the screw holes with an awl. And mark the point with a spot of paint. Then using the awl punches, locate the metal to them.
While I had the glass and belt moldings off, I got a good look inside the door. This is what I saw. NO rust. :tup: The outer skin is at the top of the pic. You can see the cladding rivets. Whenever I begin to question my sanity for ever purchasing this truck, I think how I could be dealing with rust. No thanks. I'll take crappy chinee parts.
Thanks for reading.