DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

Throws

Active member
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

I... I don't know what to say... that looks un-fkking-believable. Bravo!

So many questions....

1233928590_citizen%20kane%20clapping.gif


-P
 

fauXGT

Brick Pilot
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

To clean up the aluminium bracketry, what did you do...soda blasting? :drool:
My goal on SoGT #15's motor to look that new.
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

Nice work on the brake booster and master cylinder as well. I love seeing these trucks being given all the TLC like this. Thanks for writing.
 

Beavis

Still plays with trucks
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

Looks great Dave. One Q, do you have any plans of upgrading the turbo to take advantage of that better cam? Like a 20G or something like it?
 

Throws

Active member
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

Dave,have you tried a big block gear reduction starter on a 4.3?

They are 1/2 the size and crank twice as fast.

You should check them out IMO.

Should be the same as the later 4.3L starters out of the Astro van right?

-P
 

Jimmy

Banned
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

Dave,have you tried a big block gear reduction starter on a 4.3?

They are 1/2 the size and crank twice as fast.

You should check them out IMO.Simple bolt on that is tits.

Should be the same as the later 4.3L starters out of the Astro van right?

-P

Hell if I know.I just told the part fetching monkey at AutoWorld to give me a starter for a 96 Chevy 3/4 ton with a 454.
 

Throws

Active member
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

Hell if I know.I just told the part fetching monkey at AutoWorld to give me a starter for a 96 Chevy 3/4 ton with a 454.

Just checked the interchange... looks like they're the same. Regardless, It's a lot damn faster than the old POS one, that's for sure.

-P
 

Jimmy

Banned
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

Just checked the interchange... looks like they're the same. Regardless, It's a lot damn faster than the old POS one, that's for sure.

-P

Cool.
The first thing I noticed was that I could hold it up wiith 2 fingers.

When I installed it then cranked it I was like ****,this thing is badass.It sounds like a little jet engine and it spins so fast.
 

Throws

Active member
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

Cool: The first thing I noticed was that I could hold it up wiith 2 fingers.

When I installed it then cranked it I was like ****,this thing is badass.It sounds like a little jet engine and it spins so fast.

No shit... the old damn one was so heavy, my fkking arm would get tired holding it up.... then I'd worry the damn thing was going to fall on my head when I was threading the nuts and wires on.

-P
 

DaveP

Active member
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

Looks great Dave. One Q, do you have any plans of upgrading the turbo to take advantage of that better cam? Like a 20G or something like it?
Not on this one. I have a similar cam in my other Sy. It also has eagle rods and SP pistons so I won't be as timid about adding airflow to the other one. The other Sy also has a beefier transmission. I have no idea if adding cam to this engine was a good idea or not until I try it and log it. We'll see. Thanks for the interest.
 

DaveP

Active member
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

Moving into the Interior:

Lots of work to do in here. Some cosmetic, some repairs, and some upgrades. Once again, I'm doing this project in phases. I complete an area, get it pretty much back together and done before I move to another area. The Interior is going to be two parts.
  • IP Panel and doors.(done 9/9)
  • Repair air cond heater door actuators. Requires the IP to be out for access. (done 5/8)
  • Install Typhoon electric OSRM and wiring. (done)
  • Install RKE and wiring. (done)
  • Replace Electric window motors. (done)
  • Replace door belt moldings and window run channels. (done)
  • Clean and reinstall IP with all the missing fasteners found and installed. (done 5/8)
  • Rebuild / repair steering column. Repair loose bowl bolts. Ign switch, lower bearing, center wheel mod (Astro Steering Shaft), repair horn contact, fix turn sig cancel. (done 5/9)
  • Inst cluster clean and recondition. Replace all 'dark' bulbs, repaint needles, polish lens. (done)

Phase 2
  • Seats, carpet, console, rear trim and headliner.
  • Recover headliner
  • Recondition driver's seat cushion. Install NOS seat cover (Thanks Jeff).
  • Install used good condition used carpet set (Thanks FrankenSy).
  • Clean and install all trim.

Here it was this morning: Note how dirty and dusty this thing is. 20 years in the Desert.
IMG_1853_zpsf3ee4dc8.jpg

IMG_1852_zpsc2d87cca.jpg


Today I worked on the window run channels. I purchased replacement rubber from Rockauto. By the end of the day I was unimpressed with the quality. The rubber is hand-trimmed. The guy got it wrong. If it had been raw, and up to the installer (me) to cut it to fit, it would have been better. I'll point this out in the pics.
IMG_1867_zpsd8fdd5f7.jpg


Here's the problem. Old run channel is ripped, and the glass falls out:
IMG_1859_zpsbf808030.jpg


There are three screws buried in the channel. 2 at the rear, one at the front.
IMG_1860_zpsa08f5625.jpg


The passenger side must have been in the sun all these years. It came out in pieces. It had been baked. I've never seen one this brittle before:
IMG_1865_zps30e58c95.jpg


These metal reinforcements need to be transferred to the new rubber. Straighten the 'points' on the back, and pull the metal out. Re-straighten the points to being very straight, so they don't bend over when you push them through the new rubber.:
IMG_1868_zps679afd92.jpg


These windows in the rubber were cut about 1/2" too high. These are where you index the installation of the metal from. Center the metal in the window, and Push a point through being sure it's on center.
IMG_1869_zps4cb67f7e.jpg


There's a rib on the rubber to guide you. Apply pressure and watch the rubber bulge. If it's not on center, adjust accordingly, and push it through when centered. Pull on the point with needle nose to compress the rubber, and bend it over:
IMG_1870_zps50c60895.jpg


The cut-aways for the belt line molding were too low (OK) on the LH side, so I cut them higher with a razor knife. The cutouts on the RH side were 1/2" too high. Pissed me off.
IMG_1871_zps456a0c6a.jpg


RH side. I'll find a piece and glue it in. The Chinaman that cut it too high doesn't have to live with the crappy fit.
IMG_1874_zps9f1abd7f.jpg


All in all, this was one of the fussiest single projects I've done on a SyTy. So far, only prepping and painting cladding is worse. When I put the assembly in the door, the screws missed lining up by 3/4 of an inch, because I located off the pre-cut windows in the rubber. This was a real PITA to keep realigning and pushing the points through to adjust the height of the metal. In hindsight, I'd do one thing differently. I would put some masking tape on the door outside of the rubber, and mark the location of the screw holes. Then insert the rubber with NO metal. Using the marks as a guide, I'd punch the screw holes with an awl. And mark the point with a spot of paint. Then using the awl punches, locate the metal to them.

While I had the glass and belt moldings off, I got a good look inside the door. This is what I saw. NO rust. :tup: The outer skin is at the top of the pic. You can see the cladding rivets. Whenever I begin to question my sanity for ever purchasing this truck, I think how I could be dealing with rust. No thanks. I'll take crappy chinee parts.
IMG_1858_zps05f8627c.jpg


Thanks for reading.
 
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MRKING

New Parts for Old Trucks
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

Your really banging that truck out Dave , nice work .

It sucks that the window part fits poorly . Are you planning on calling the company and nicely explaining that replacements would please you ?
 

DaveP

Active member
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

So today I continued in the interior. I started another thread today on least favorite tasks, and the heater core popped up a couple of times. Looking at how easy it was to get to, I decided "why not?" and procured one at Pep-Boys and thought I'd set a new record for Heater Core R&R. I turned on the time stamp in my camera in an attempt to document my record time. Not.

Here it is. Note the time:
IMG_1880_zps10f02fd3.jpg


Here's the old core. It was leaking. Good call, on my part to replace it. The trend for this truck continues. If it's in this truck, it's f'd:
IMG_1881_zpsaad5e8a4.jpg


Here's the replacement. It's an aluminum Spectra.
IMG_1882_zps1e24b177.jpg


It didn't fit down in the recess flush. The cover wouldn't go back on. It's just enough different that it fought me for about 25 minutes before I got frustrated and pushed it in with my foot.
IMG_1883_zps7b041351.jpg


And the cover back on. I replaced the foam seal at the interface to the mode door box too:
IMG_1884_zpsfa954da8.jpg


So 45 minutes elapsed. I've done one in less than an hour the 'normal' way. I messed with the aluminum core for quite awhile. No new record. But it was pretty easy. :D
 
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92TyLA

New member
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

threads like these pump me up so much to go open the engine hood and arm myself whit a toothbrush and some degreaser.

awesome progress Mr. Dave and thanks for sharing
 

Syclone22

Member
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver

A Great clean up job done keep
up the good work it will be a show stopper
when finished are you painting the under chassis ?? ;)
 

Baythan

SY2TY2SY2TY
Re: DesertSy: It's Just a Driver


:eek: O....M....G!! Props to any of you who can take one of these apart, figure out the spaghetti, and put it back together. Wish i had the time and capacity to learn that.

Nice thread. :thumbsup:
 
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