CV boot rebuild kit

[KGB Pilot125]

just wondering if any body had a PN for the outer boot for the passenger side? have to rebuild mine or have some one do it. just want to get the right part. I also have a order going into GMPartsdirect.com so if they have it it will save me some shipping.

TIA
Josh

 

[MadPSI]

Do yourself a favor. Get a whole new halfshaft. It's only about $65 and ten THOUSAND times easier to replace than the friggen boot. It's the same halfshaft PN for both sides...

Brandon
ASM Sy #1151

 

[KGB Pilot125]

any body got a PN for a replacement? is another gm one good enough or is there an upgraded one that is about the same price.

Thanks,
Josh

 

[Tydriver]

any body got a PN for a replacement? is another gm one good enough or is there an upgraded one that is about the same price.

Thanks,
Josh

I agree with 1st post referring to replacing entire shaft.... In fact I JUST pulled the one on the passenger side of my truck about 15mins ago.... Anyhow the outer boot was bad on it so I decided that 110K was long enough for stocker especially since i plan on beating the HELL out of it soon :lol: Anyhow last time I changed it the dealer wanted over $500 for the individual parts (they DONT sell entire assy).. Well I decided that was absurd so I went to NAPA (and will be going tomorrow) it cost me like $75 +tax for the shaft and it was a ringer for the Stocker.... Believe it or not, their computers DO show Typhoon so just ask for it by application......

 

[myclone]

any body got a PN for a replacement? is another gm one good enough or is there an upgraded one that is about the same price.

Thanks,
Josh

Well I decided that was absurd so I went to NAPA (and will be going tomorrow) it cost me like $75 +tax for the shaft and it was a ringer for the Stocker.... Believe it or not, their computers DO show Typhoon so just ask for it by application......

I JUST finished up changing out my THIRD axle from NAPA. The boots came apart on all three. The one that lasted the longest was maybe 1k miles (busted on the way to GB KS last year). Needless to say none of em lasted very long. Gonna try a Advanced Auto one and see how long it lasts. :roll:

Just hope you have better luck with NAPA axles than I did. :evil: :x

 

[KGB Pilot125]

jsut got off the phone with schucks. 71.99 for a remaned unit plus a 81 dollar core charge. or 119.99 for a brand spankin new one.

 

[MadPSI]

I got mine from AutoZone. It's got a lifetime warranty on it. Since both shafts are identical I only had to pay for one shaft to have free replacements of both for life. They don't really care that I'm thrashing them and my brake pads twice a year.

 

[Syclone2163]

Well I too have to replace one of my CV boots.
So you guys are recommending buying a whole new shaft rather then just replacing the boot? Is it that difficult to put on a new boot? If so, does anyone have the part numbers for the Napa and AutoZone shaft? One last question, will a new shaft come with every thing I will need to replace it?


Sorry for all the questions, but I'm not that mechanically inclined and want to make sure that I get everything I need before I try to take on this project.

 

[myclone]

Get the entire axle.

Putting a CV boot on an axle shaft is like putting a wetsuit on a snake thats been covered in grease (dont ask me how I know that).

Needless to say I wont be buying anymore axles from NAPA but you might give em a try. Maybe I just got unlucky three times. :roll:

You will need a ball joint seperator and tie rod end seperator. I believe most chain store rent these pretty cheap. You can use a "pickle fork" but unless youre gonna replace the ball joints and tie rod ends dont use it. It tears the rubber dust boot.

You'll need a ~12" cresent wrench for the nuts on the tie rods and ball joints.

Some new cotter pins to go back in the tie rods/ball joints if youre not replacing em.

An allen wrench/allen socket that fits the brake caliper bolts.

Sockets/wrenches to fit the lower shock bolt/nut (don remember what size but I believe theyre metric)

1/2" drive socket and extensions to get the axle to diff flange bolts off (metric)

1/2" drive breaker bar or long handled ratchet to remove diff flange bolts (they are tight but not near as tight as the one Im gettin ready to tell you about).

26mm socket for the axle nut. This thing is crack head gorilla tight. Youre gonna need the breaker bar PLUS a "cheater" pipe to go on the handle to break it loose.

Thats about all I can think of right off the top of my head. Be sure to put lock tite on the diff flange/axle bolts when you put em back in. Clean the brake rotor with ether too. Gets all the nasties off the rotor.

Oh yeah, youre gonna need a few bandaids and poss some stitches. You aint a "man" in syty land till you lost some hide and are bleeding profusely from workin on the truck. You'll get used to it. :wink:

 

[KGB Pilot125]

Oh yeah, youre gonna need a few bandaids and poss some stitches. You aint a "man" in syty land till you lost some hide and are bleeding profusely from workin on the truck. You'll get used to it. :wink:

true that.
and as for part numbers I called schucks and it was actually in the computer, like posted above. jsut tell em Syclone or Typhoon

 

[GMC-YA]

Get in touch with Micheal Hood, he is a fellow syty owner and runs an auto parts store, great guy and will probably cut you a deal. www.tuckerautoparts.com phone numbers is 1-800-858-2447

 

[Tydriver]

Needless to say I wont be buying anymore axles from NAPA but you might give em a try. Maybe I just got unlucky three times. :roll:

Aint this just funny, Josh B and I were talking about this very thing a couple of nites ago..... Out here I wouldnt set foot in an AUTOZONE , they are about as bad as taking your truck to a DEALER to have it worked on.. They are nothing more than CLUELESS at best with CHEAPOLA Made in SRI LANKA parts...... Here it seems like NAPA is the best for actually getting someone with a pulse behind the counter, and I havent heard a PEEP from the CV shaft I changed on other side when I first got the truck... No major complaints.. Kinda ironic how a couple hundred miles changes things soooo drastically in the Auto Parts Biz.

26mm socket for the axle nut. This thing is crack head gorilla tight. Youre gonna need the breaker bar PLUS a "cheater" pipe to go on the handle to break it loose.

Ummmm have to disagree with ya here, I just installed the new shaft I was referring to yesterday and when I tightened the axle nut it was 36MM on my truck... Perhaps I just have BIGGER NUTS ??? :lol: Haaaa, just kidding, anyhow it was 36MM on my truck good luck with the install, it doesnt take that long if you have the RIGHT tools...

 

[myclone]

Ummmm have to disagree with ya here, I just installed the new shaft I was referring to yesterday and when I tightened the axle nut it was 36MM on my truck... Perhaps I just have BIGGER NUTS ??? :lol: Haaaa, just kidding, anyhow it was 36MM on my truck good luck with the install, it doesnt take that long if you have the RIGHT tools...

Ya might have me there.. Was going by memory and we all know how bad that is... :roll: Damn, like I need another reason to be grumpy.. Everyones nuts are at least 10mm bigger than mine.

 

[7dhamper]

I borke my nuts loose yesterday (36mm). I had to jump up and down on a 4 foot pipe over my breaker bar while my boy held down the breaks! What the hell is the torque spec on those things?

 

[7dhamper]

I borke my nuts loose yesterday (36mm). I had to jump up and down on a 4 foot pipe over my breaker bar while my boy held down the breaks! What the hell is the torque spec on those things?

 

[Tydriver]

I borke my nuts loose yesterday (36mm). I had to jump up and down on a 4 foot pipe over my breaker bar while my boy held down the breaks! What the hell is the torque spec on those things?

Torque is waaaaaaay up there, sounds like to me that the TORQUE value is about a little less than some dude jumping up and down on a 4ft extension on his breaker bar ! :lol:

Seriously tho, when going back together just GERMAN TORQUE it and call it good (yea U know GOOT-n-TIGHT). Just make sure you install the anti-rotation device and a NEW COTTERKEY. The old one shouldnt be re-used.

I used "the old slip a pry bar in the opposite side lugnut stud on the other side (I had on jackstands) and let it rest against the ground method."

I didnt have the luxury of having an assistant but it sounds like U got it loose so the easiest part is replacing it.. Good Luck !

 

[MR_MNZTR_SY]

*groan* i wish i had thought of that before i cut off the head of a bolt in the flang on the front diff. now the rest of the bolt is stuck there. fuckin A

 

[myclone]

*groan* i wish i had thought of that before i cut off the head of a bolt in the flang on the front diff. now the rest of the bolt is stuck there. fuckin A

Did you cut it off with a torch or a saw/grinder of some type? If you didnt use a torch then it shouldnt be too much of a PIA to drill it and use an "easy out" or just drill it completely. Still not the most pleasurable thing to do but it can be done (most of the time anyway).

If you used a torch then in my experience it hardens the metal and drilling it becomes a MAJOR PIA. I dunno what Id do in that situation.

 

[MR_MNZTR_SY]

well good news, i got it out today. unfortunatly i had to pull off the whole flange and put it in a vice to get enough torque to it, even with a decent sized propane tourch. i guess i need a new crush sleeve on the front diff...i guess ill start a new thread for that one

 

[7dhamper]

I got mine from AutoZone. It's got a lifetime warranty on it. Since both shafts are identical I only had to pay for one shaft to have free replacements of both for life. They don't really care that I'm thrashing them and my brake pads twice a year.

So if I go in there with my core in hand then I don't have to drop the $70.00 just the $69.99 + tax for the new one right? And when I get home I can take the new one outta the box, put the other bad one in, and take it back and ask for another new one as it is "lifetime Guarentee"? Is that what your saying? 2 for 1 deal? I'm there!!! They will do this on breaks too? What parts? I know not the pads! What? The rotors and the discs? What about the calipers? Will they swap those for new ones too? This sounds better than Wal Mart!