Custom Skeletonized Radiator Support

[the Sandman]

Here's a couple of shots of the new radiator support during the fabrication phase - before powdercoating and final installation. We've gone to a bigger turbo than in the photo (now a GT66BB with 4" inlet, 2 1/2" outlet to IC) - feeding it cold air should *not* be a problem. Now, the rad support is black and invisible from the front with the grill on and hood down.

 

[FLSY2730]

How much is this peice, and is it a bolt in , and how much weight savings?

 

[the Sandman]

How much is this piece?

It needs to be custom fabricated, so it's fairly expensive - no set price, depends on how much time goes into it.

Is it a bolt in?

Yes.

How much weight savings?

Right about 25 pounds.

Although 25 pounds off the nose is significant, the main reason to do this is for increasing underhood airflow, access to cold air for intake, and custom mounting of aftermarket radiator, air/air IC, Aux CCHE, tranny cooler, etc..

 

[Tydriver]

Looks awesome.. Thats the kind of innovation I like to see.. I only have one question.. That big ass turbo and you are still going to run the stocker IC ?

I see the lower CAC in that pic, or is that an A2A setup ? Either way, the rad support looks great ! Good luck with this mod !!

 

[the Sandman]

Looks awesome.. Thats the kind of innovation I like to see.. I only have one question.. That big ass turbo and you are still going to run the stocker IC ?

I see the lower CAC in that pic, or is that an A2A setup ? Either way, the rad support looks great ! Good luck with this mod !!

Thanks. As far as the IC goes, it will be the stock upper unit but opened up a bit - I had the big Conley unit on this truck and there was no improvement over the the stocker plus it took up too much room. The water hoses are being rerouted more efficiently, the lower CCHE is the Griffin unit, and the AUX IC CCHE is to be upgraded. Plus a Meziere inline 20 gpm IC pump and careful attention to removing any restriction anywhere in the system. I'm also putting in an intake air temp gauge so we'll see if it works...

 

[Falco]

Sandman,

What kinda air temp gauge will you use?

Later,

 

[the Sandman]

What kinda air temp gauge will you use?

Autometer #3372 - 2 1/16" Single Channel Intake Temperature Gauge 30-300°F - single channel intake temperature gauge includes temperature module and fast response thermocouple probe.

 

[Loeryder]

I like the Rad Support.
Cuts a Lot of CRAP out of the way I have thought about taking a sawzall to.
The weight savings is a bonus to the cooling benefits.

He should build a version to hold a stock Rad w/AC.
Not that I can afford one right now anyways.

 

[Falco]

Autometer 3372 - 2 1/16" Single Channel Intake Temperature Gauge30-300°F - single channel intake temperature gauge includes temperature module and fast response thermocouple probe.

Wow. Thanks. I didn't know this gauge.

Later,

 

[the Sandman]

There's also #3373 - 2-Channel Intake Temperature Gauge 2 1/16" 30-400°F
2-Channel intake temperature gauge includes temperature module and 2 fast response thermocouple probes.

Summit Prices:
#3372 $205
#3373 $257

With the #3373 you can monitor temps before and after the IC. I went with the #3372 because I really only need to know the intake air temp after the IC.

 

[the Sandman]

I like the Rad Support.
Cuts a Lot of CRAP out of the way I have thought about taking a sawzall to.
The weight savings is a bonus to the cooling benefits.

He should build a version to hold a stock Rad w/AC.

Dennis could do a run of these if there was enough interest. He says at least 5 or it's not worth it. Price uncertain but in the neighborhood of $300. These would be set up for a stock radiator with A/C as you suggest which would eliminate the need to fabricate a new latch. Going with the hydraulic hood props would eliminate the need for a hood prop on the radiator support.

There would be no customizations done - all would be the same. If theres enough interest I'll let Dennis know.

 

[Loeryder]

Dennis could do a run of these if there was enough interest. He says at least 5 or it's not worth it. Price uncertain but in the neighborhood of $300. These would be set up for a stock radiator with A/C as you suggest which would eliminate the need to fabricate a new latch. Going with the hydraulic hood props would eliminate the need for a hood prop on the radiator support.

I would probably go for that.
Of course right now there is no extra cash for shit, but once yours is squared away, if you guys pursue it, I'd be interested.

My old idea was to get a junk rad support and just start cutting/drilling big holes in it everywhere

Got any pics of it without the grill on?

 

[the Sandman]

 

[dgoodhue]

That pretty cool, I would be interested if bolt in to place with my stock
stuff.

 

[E-Rue]

you mush have cashola coming out of your hiney.

im jealouse.

e

 

[Daron]

Thats a great start on a "flip" front end. The ones I have seen on S-10's are supported by a similar box tube setup, but not as nice. If you have overheating issues, you may want to have Dennis consider a "shroud" for the radiator to direct air to it, since the air is going to have far too many options to go around the radiator with that setup.

 

[warmpancakes]

Im interested in one. is it steel or aluminum? Ken

 

[the Sandman]

Aluminum. Very lightweight. Dennis is gonna grab some photos of the powdercoated piece reinstalled in the truck so you can see the finished look. I also asked him to get some shots of the custom lower gauge panel in the truck and the catalytic converter array he's putting together for me.

Do you guys want a factory prop rod or would you prefer to go with the hydraulic prop rods to simplify the rad support?

 

[warmpancakes]

hydro shocks, and do we get to pick the color of powder coat?

 

[warmpancakes]

sorry i forgot to mention I have the dequick dual IC and dont need the center support will that be a problem?