Cross member removal
- Thread starter denny
- Start date
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: Cross member removal
Look for a spot weld on flat area at the bottom where it comes over on top of the frame.
It's very thin. Just grind it off. Probably got a bunch of crud on it.
Look for a spot weld on flat area at the bottom where it comes over on top of the frame.
It's very thin. Just grind it off. Probably got a bunch of crud on it.
mattw
Active member
Re: Cross member removal
Yes and I agreed. I'd rather see guys boxing the frame and adding more crossmembers.
-Matt
Yes and I agreed. I'd rather see guys boxing the frame and adding more crossmembers.
-Matt
Re: Cross member removal
I see the weld (look more like a big fat rivet), couldn't get the grinder in there. I drilled most if it out but still couldn't get it to move. My friend is telling that there is a tool to get it out, it expand the top to bottom of the frame.
I wanted to take out the TC but didn't want to seperate the transfercase from the trans. Its heavy and I have no help. End up seperating the transfercase, the trans is out now.
Yes, I think it will cause the frame to flex if its not there. I was going to put it back on.
I see the weld (look more like a big fat rivet), couldn't get the grinder in there. I drilled most if it out but still couldn't get it to move. My friend is telling that there is a tool to get it out, it expand the top to bottom of the frame.
I wanted to take out the TC but didn't want to seperate the transfercase from the trans. Its heavy and I have no help. End up seperating the transfercase, the trans is out now.
Yes, I think it will cause the frame to flex if its not there. I was going to put it back on.
Syclone#892
Member
Re: Cross member removal
I had the same problem so I took out the torch and cut it in half, then hit it with a big hammer.
That was enough to break the welds.
I do agree on not removing it unless you are replacing it with something else.
I had an old Dunstan tubular crossmember that I put back. Only problem is he made it wrong so its not ideal now
so I will have or make a new one this winter but for now its going to work.
Good luck!
I had the same problem so I took out the torch and cut it in half, then hit it with a big hammer.
That was enough to break the welds.
I do agree on not removing it unless you are replacing it with something else.
I had an old Dunstan tubular crossmember that I put back. Only problem is he made it wrong so its not ideal now
so I will have or make a new one this winter but for now its going to work.Good luck!
Re: Cross member removal
My main objective was to get the TC out (getting it re-stall) ,
I have coilover infront so the the torsen bar crossmember is already gone. I figured if I removed that cross member, I could move the trans and transfercase together back enough to slip the TC out. Its hard for one person to balance the trans or transfercase on a jack while jacking it down, I had both fall off the jack before.
70lb is a lot for me to bench.
Only spent about 1hr on on that, I end up seperating the trans from the transfercase.
BTW - this is about the 4th time I removed the trans by myself, its getting easy but not easy enough, it took 2 1/2 hr this time.
My main objective was to get the TC out (getting it re-stall) ,
I have coilover infront so the the torsen bar crossmember is already gone. I figured if I removed that cross member, I could move the trans and transfercase together back enough to slip the TC out. Its hard for one person to balance the trans or transfercase on a jack while jacking it down, I had both fall off the jack before.
70lb is a lot for me to bench.
Only spent about 1hr on on that, I end up seperating the trans from the transfercase.
BTW - this is about the 4th time I removed the trans by myself, its getting easy but not easy enough, it took 2 1/2 hr this time.
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Cross member removal
opcorn2: I would interested in one of those...
I had an old Dunstan tubular crossmember that I put back. Only problem is he made it wrong so its not ideal now
opcorn2: I would interested in one of those...
Loeryder
New member
Re: Cross member removal
JSM was going to make a couple at one time for his coilover clients but I don't think it ever came to be.
Thats still on my list of things to bug Jeff to do again someday.
Finalyl got my DP and my coilover kit so I am runnign out of things to bug him to make!
JSM was going to make a couple at one time for his coilover clients but I don't think it ever came to be.
Thats still on my list of things to bug Jeff to do again someday.
Finalyl got my DP and my coilover kit so I am runnign out of things to bug him to make!
Syclone#892
Member
Re: Cross member removal
I removed mine for the same reason. Changing out the tc also.
I have removed trans etc to many times already so I know its possible to do it by pulling it all apart.
I don't plan on taking any of it apart, just lowering as needed and sliding it back till I can change it out. I will be doing this on my rack at work, laying on my back I probably wouldnt try it this way.
Good luck changing your tc out!
I removed mine for the same reason. Changing out the tc also.
I have removed trans etc to many times already so I know its possible to do it by pulling it all apart.
I don't plan on taking any of it apart, just lowering as needed and sliding it back till I can change it out. I will be doing this on my rack at work, laying on my back I probably wouldnt try it this way.
Good luck changing your tc out!
mrweelr
New member
Re: Cross member removal
How are you guys getting the brake lines out of this piece? I looked at it today and I really don't want to have to undo the brake lines - it doesn't look simple. I'm thinking about using a Dremel tool or Sawzall to cut around the cables. I'm planning on removing this next weekend and will replace it with the custom RPM chromoly crossmember/driveshaft loop.
How are you guys getting the brake lines out of this piece? I looked at it today and I really don't want to have to undo the brake lines - it doesn't look simple. I'm thinking about using a Dremel tool or Sawzall to cut around the cables. I'm planning on removing this next weekend and will replace it with the custom RPM chromoly crossmember/driveshaft loop.
SY-1193
Active member
Re: Cross member removal
Wow, Sounds like it was a struggle. If you are doing an 80e trans it is shifted back and notching makes clearance for the extra length of the longer trans. I have this to look forward to. Now I may consider notching and welding while it is in the truck for the 80e. I will see when everything is out of the way and the trans/transfer is out of the way.
Wow, Sounds like it was a struggle. If you are doing an 80e trans it is shifted back and notching makes clearance for the extra length of the longer trans. I have this to look forward to. Now I may consider notching and welding while it is in the truck for the 80e. I will see when everything is out of the way and the trans/transfer is out of the way.
Re: Cross member removal
If you are referring to the parkbrake cable, then it easy. Release the park brake, that will make the line loose. Right by the corssmember is where the line joined, just un-hook it with your hand, unless it rusted up.
If you are referring to the parkbrake cable, then it easy. Release the park brake, that will make the line loose. Right by the corssmember is where the line joined, just un-hook it with your hand, unless it rusted up.
mrweelr
New member
Re: Cross member removal
Never mind, I finally got it out..
Hey Denny - how did you end up getting that crossmember out? I removed the bottom bolts today and plan to take an air chisel and mini-sledge to it tomorrow. I'm curious how you were able to finally get this out and how long it took. Not looking forward to it at all, but I need it out since my 80e and t-case are ready to go back in the truck as one piece. Let me know if you have any pointers, thanks.
Re: Cross member removal
I drilled thru the rivet (use wd40 so you don't burn the drill bit, start with a small bit , then bigger) Then I used a small sledge to knock it off.
To get out from between the fram rails, flip it flat, slide the passenger side towards the rear and drivers to the front. I also dropped the exhaust.
I drilled thru the rivet (use wd40 so you don't burn the drill bit, start with a small bit , then bigger) Then I used a small sledge to knock it off.
To get out from between the fram rails, flip it flat, slide the passenger side towards the rear and drivers to the front. I also dropped the exhaust.
mrweelr
New member
Re: Cross member removal
Cool man, thanks. What about the welds...how did you break those? I think I'm going to try cutting the rivet heads in half with a Dremel and then breaking the pieces off with a chisel and hammer. I hope the e-brake lines are easy to unhook. Not looking forward to it (agh).
Cool man, thanks. What about the welds...how did you break those? I think I'm going to try cutting the rivet heads in half with a Dremel and then breaking the pieces off with a chisel and hammer. I hope the e-brake lines are easy to unhook. Not looking forward to it (agh).
Re: Cross member removal
I didn't have any welds, the top had rivets and my bottom have bolts. I remember putting bolts on the bottom years ago but can't remember what was there before or if i remove any weld.
The ebrake line is simple, release the park brake and the lines become loose. You un-screw the bolt and nut and then unhook the two rear lines from each other.
I didn't have any welds, the top had rivets and my bottom have bolts. I remember putting bolts on the bottom years ago but can't remember what was there before or if i remove any weld.
The ebrake line is simple, release the park brake and the lines become loose. You un-screw the bolt and nut and then unhook the two rear lines from each other.