cladding saturation b4 paint

syclonefrankie

New member
Im considering painting the cladding, but heres the question...my cladding is really dry and blotchy. I was going to dress it for a month or two before it gets painted, does the cladding have to be dried out of any dressing before paint? I would imagine the primer would soak up the dressing or just not stick to it period. Has anyone been faced with this before painting their cladding? How far ahead of painting should I stop dressing the cladding? Next, are there any regrets on cladding paint? I was considering doing a satin black on the cladding verses glossy...has anyone else done this using satin? Id like to see some different cladding pictures glossy verses satin or any other idea to consider.

Thanx
 

syclonefrankie

New member
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i appreciate that, it sure shed some light on the matter. now im thinking about rock chips on the front like someone mentioned in this post. i think i'll stay away from silicone though in any case, and stay with wax.
 

myclone

Donating Member
Dont put wax on the cladding either until ~30 days after you paint it. Wax contains silicone to some degree too (unless its 100% carnuba).

HTH
 

100in6

100in6
i sure don't know as much as some of the other guys about this, but i'll throw something in fwiw. i thought pretty seriously about painting the cladding on mine because i had seen one and liked the shiny typhoon like appearance. then i saw a couple of them that had been painted and noticed a bunch of chips and blemishes that looked pretty bad. my question is this. after you do the paint thing and get the chips and blemishes, what do you do then???????????? seems like you are stuck with chips and blemishes, and then the fix is a lot harder. and for folks that complain about mothers back to black, or black chrome, or shoe polish, or whatever, how easy do you think fixing up the painted ones will be.

i asked a fella i knew that is an exstordinary paint and body man. he restores original gt40's, original cobras, ferraris, and stuff like that and has had a lot of his stuff in magazines and win shows. he truly is outstanding. and NOT cheap. his name is dave ley in wexford pa for anyone looking for someone. he advised against doing the paint for all the reasons the guys are telling you about. he said it could be a constant upkeep nightmare. the typhoons don't have that problem because they originally came finished from the factory. so i didn't do it.

I tried something that seemed to work pretty good if you want to try this. I know there is other stuff around that probably works as well or better and i would appreciate knowing it if someone cares to share. I got a bottle of the new mothers back to black and we put a coat on pretty heavy. we really slathered it on. then we stuck it in the trailer and let it sit for a few days in the sun and the inside of the trailer gets pretty hot and it seemed to bake into the plastic a little bit and when we wiped it off and polished it up it was very shiny and really brought the black back and it almost looked like it had been painted. after that all we ever have had to do is wipe it down with a light buffing of and it seems to polish back up. we're talking two or three minutes here. even when it get crappy looking from rain it comes right back with a little wipe. i realize that most guys don't have an enclosed trailer but if you could stick it in a garage and maybe use a couple of heat lamps to heat the garage up to over a hundred degrees it would be the same. i do think the heat helps to cook it in a little. problems with this method instead of painting are the same old things like dust sticking a little and it is a little greasy and smears a little. also if you paint it you can clean up some of the defects that GM never bothered to do.

but the advantages are that it won't cost a 1000 bucks, and leave you with the paint chipping easily and getting that blotchy look. if you pay enough to the painter he may respray if for you, but he won't do that forever.

I have thought of doing the shoe polish with the same method and then using a little buffer to polish it up with. has anybody else tried this or used the new back to black? what ever you decide good luck! i think what myclone was saying about using the professional cleaner and wax remover sounds like a great way to start prepping
 

Captain Morgan

Moderated User
the biggest problem I have seen reguarding chips and such is the quality of paint used and/or not enough hardner or something.

Ive seen truck that look like they have a foe (sp?) finish on them, and others look like glass.

My truck has seen 46,000 miles in the 3 years that Ive owned it. Drive to and from Chi-Town in 2002, to and from KC this summer. I have a total of maybe 5 chips on the whole front end of my truck, 3 of which are in the hard plastic grill.

So the big question here is; Is the problem painting the cladding? or is the problem the quality paint used?

I understand the problem with Syclones being unfinished and Typhoons being finished from the factory, but ive seen both good and bad on both trucks. If the problem infact IS that the paint never adheres to the cladding that well cause of previous chemicals being applied, why not just go out and buy one of those fiberglass bumpers and be done with it??
 

ed hess

race or get outta the way
most of you guys dont know what the syclone lcladding looked like when it was new.

I know since i am the original owner.

It was the exact same shiny black that you have in the syclone logo stickers!!!!

it was not flat!

To duplicate this appearance with something that will last that can be maintained...

I had my cladding painted black and then had SATIN CLEAR sprayed over it.

This give you the 2 tone black look like it had from the factory but it wont turn to chalk since it can be polished. and it will stay that way!

ed
 

syclonefrankie

New member
That is exactly what i wanted to see ed, black painted cladding with satin finish. can you send me a pic? You know, i think out of the whole syty forum cladding is the number one issue, because every thing else can be tested and reversed and fairly quick. The only way to win in this situation is to own two sets of cladding, original and hard plastic. Now, ive heard everyone mention cracks and chips and hardener, but what about using flex and baking the paint? and a real tough coat of eurythane? In any case I'm taking a variety of advice from each. Theres no definate winner here, its either paint chips, or two hours of "arms of steel" aerobic waxing. Its apparent these are collectors trucks and nothing nice comes without a price to pay, and spending quality time lubing these babies up is part of having our little sweethearts. so.....where can i get the plastic ones?
 

InvisiBill

Active member
The first winter TookyCat has his Sy, he was waxing it up at the dealership where his dad works before putting it away. One of the other employees ran into it with another truck, screwing up the front left corner. They repainted all the cladding, exactly like it was stock, but with enamel paint (the original lacquer paint is now illegal). He had a page up showing the damage and repair, but I don't have the link now...
 

myclone

Donating Member
I dont want to get into a flame war with any painters about which paint brand is better okay???

That being said the durability of the finish has to do with several factors.

1. Qaulity of material used.. If you buy cheap paint its gonna give you crappy results. I use Sikkens exclusively but PPG and Dupont make good stuff. STAY AWAY FROM CHEAP SHIT!!

2. Surface prep before paint was applied. If the surface wasnt prepared correctly then no ones paint is gonna stick to it or be durable.

3. UV... This gets back to number 1. If you by good paint its more resistant to UV for a longer period (especially for you guys with no garage to park in). Cheap stuff starts to deteriorate in a matter of months. The more it deteriorates the less durable it is to rock chips even though it still looks good.

4. Mil application. For all you guys that like to put 25 coats of material on thats a no-no for a driver and as a customer you shouldnt ask/pay to have it done. Show car yes... The more material you put on the worse the rock chip looks and it catches wax, dirt, crud and stands out 10x worse than a chip in something thats only 5-6 mils thick.

5. Tint your primer close to the same color the finish coat will be. Most GOOD paints can be tinted by adding color (check with manufacturer). This makes chips stand out even less as you dont have gray or yellow primer showing through when you do get a rock chip.

6. This is just my opinion so if you dont agree then no big deal... Anyway, I like to use urathane single stage on cladding or in areas I know will get chipped. You can touch up single stage with a drop of paint then wet sand/buff till its almost invisible. A base/clear finish is tough as hell to touch up and not stand out like a third eye in the center of your forehead. Clear can also have a minute white edge where it delaminated ever so slightly around a chip which makes the chip stand out even more. Once wax and crud get under that minute edge it stands out even more.

7. Paint your truck refrigerator white then you wont have to worry about paint care.

8. Someone PLEASE put this stuff in the vault or something... Im tired of typing it.
 

syclonefrankie

New member
you made a good point about the black primer thing, i havent seen anyone use black primer yet and that should be point number one. you mentioned touching up urathane with paint and polishing, now im not a painter but your talking about using black urathane as the coating? and your next point, i wouldnt attempt to paint a syclone unless i can do it properly with the best products. so i agree with you. i hate seeing these syclones and typhoons get ruined by ding dongs that dont know how to maintain a collectors vehicle. Im surprised i havent seen a push bar bolted to the front of one of these things yet.
 

ed hess

race or get outta the way
Re: DAMN

Re: DAMN

syclonefrankie said:
Ed. your truck is the shit. thats all i can say. damn.

one last question here

I am going to show my age but if someone says:

"your truck is the shit, damn."

is this a good thing or bad? :)
ed
 

Captain Morgan

Moderated User
Re: DAMN

Re: DAMN

ed hess said:
syclonefrankie said:
Ed. your truck is the shit. thats all i can say. damn.

one last question here

I am going to show my age but if someone says:

"your truck is the shit, damn."

is this a good thing or bad? :)
ed

"the shit" = good

"shit" = bad

:wink:
 

ed hess

race or get outta the way
then i guess i shouild say thanks

Hey ya feel me?

I heard a couple brothers sayin this to each other while they waited in my shop to get their tint done.

ya know we still have no idea exaclty what they meant by saying his to each other.....dont think they were gay! :) LOL

ed
 

syclonefrankie

New member
you know i cant figure that out either? how did that term come to mean "really nice"? i'll leave the term " the shit" out of it. we'll revert to more understandible earlier terms for sake of confusion. Ed.....your truck is "Boss", its "Bitchin".
 

syclonekid43

New member
myclone said:
I dont want to get into a flame war with any painters about which paint brand is better okay???

That being said the durability of the finish has to do with several factors.

1. Qaulity of material used.. If you buy cheap paint its gonna give you crappy results. I use Sikkens exclusively but PPG and Dupont make good stuff. STAY AWAY FROM CHEAP SHIT!!

.

im with myclone. my sy just got done with sikkens. body is done with jet black. the cladding is done with rally black. do it right the first time. spend the few extra bucks and go with good paint.

woster_062.jpg
 

Black Storm

New member
roberto said:
myclone said:
I dont want to get into a flame war with any painters about which paint brand is better okay???

That being said the durability of the finish has to do with several factors.

1. Qaulity of material used.. If you buy cheap paint its gonna give you crappy results. I use Sikkens exclusively but PPG and Dupont make good stuff. STAY AWAY FROM CHEAP SHIT!!

.

im with myclone. my sy just got done with sikkens. body is done with jet black. the cladding is done with rally black. do it right the first time. spend the few extra bucks and go with good paint.

woster_062.jpg

Oh my dear Lord. That pic just gave me chills. :eek: Absolutely frickin jaw- drop gorgeous.
 
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