Can someone look at these adl logs Please?

J-bird

J-bird

Member
Ok,

I have TunerPro RT, and a moates USB aldl cable. This is all working fine and well, I can data log and read everything in real-time. I really don't know what I'm looking at, other than a lot of knock retard under boost, and an O2 voltage that looks like a sign wave. The truck has a very rough idel despite a recent tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, ignition module, sillicone vacuume lines, fuel filter, ect).

Can someone that has some experience tuning look at my adl files.

Adl logs

Also the truck is all stock, other than a battery relocation and a cone filter where the battery used to be.

I do have an ostrich, and an lc-1 wide band o2. I just can’t seem to find the ECM pins to wire the o2 in to the ECM.

I really appreciate any help you guys can give me.

Thanks,

Jereny
 
J-bird

J-bird

Member
Re: Can someone look at these adl logs Please?

My main question for anyone that looks at the log files is: is it normal for a stock o2 to swing in voltage that much at idel, or at a cruze for that matter.

If this is not normal does this situation look like an o2 on the way out, or am I seeing the result of something else. What could cause an o2 to act like this, I think i may have a bad EGR?

Also what could be causing so much knock retard, and do you think this is related to the bad idel and funky o2 readings.

Thanks,

Jeremy
 
J-bird

J-bird

Member
Re: Can someone look at these adl logs Please?

I noticed a few things after some more reaserch.

My TPS % does not go up to 100 %,

and at idel my 2 bar kpa is between 42 and 32 KPa depinding on were the idel is bouncing around at.

Can some one please help me.

Thanks,

Jeremy
 
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Quickstop [UK]

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Can someone look at these adl logs Please?

I can't help you with the TPS / idle pressure, but the O2 is designed to cycle. It should oscillate between .1 mV and .9 mv, so it always looks like it is going. You will note that in DM there is a box for cross counts - that is for the O2 voltage to cycle back and forward. Not too sure how it works but it IS designed to fluctuate.

Have you tried putting the paperclip in the ALDL port (two right hand most upper holes) to get the fault codes?

Do that, then turn the ignition on, but don't start the engine. Then you can read the flashes and get your codes.

code 12 is the default test code:

flash --- short pause --- flash flash, repeated twice (so total 3) then onto next code.
(1) ---------------------------------- (2) = 12

O2 fail is code 13
EGR fail is 32
MAP sensor circuits are 33/34 (High /Low pressures respectively)
Idle error = code 35.

You say you have changed all the ignition stuff and done a tune - are the wires back in the same/ correct place? Was the idle better or worse before the tune up?

What are your IATs like? Retard will be down to knock potentially - are you getting any? I'm not really too up on idle to be honest.

Search, but read this thread - it tells you a lot of idle problems:

http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=34731&page=1&pp=15&highlight=idle

Hope that all helps.

Mark
 
J-bird

J-bird

Member
Re: Can someone look at these adl logs Please?

I have read over that thread many times, and it has givin me a few more things to check. I did get all the wire put back in the right firing order, and after replacing just about everything idnition related its not any better than it was before. I checked for vaccum leaks with the tube test and didn't find anthing that was realy leaking, execpt the Egr was stuck open a bit. After removing the Egr it is a bit better.

The IAT go up real high (150F) at a steady curz of 70 mph, But on the same datat log under boost the temp was like 89F and i still had 12 deges of knock retard at only 70 percent TPS??

That dose not make sens to me.
 
berzerker

berzerker

wookie
Re: Can someone look at these adl logs Please?

do you know what chip you have. and have you checked the intercooler pump operation. i.e start with the hot wire of the intercooler pump if not already done, so that it runs all the time with the ignition turned on . easy to do, on the fire wall mounted relays the one closest to the drivers side will have a yellow wire coming out of it . tap into the yellow wire with a scotchlock and run a wire from that to a good ground . if pump dose'nt turn on ,check fuse holder behind alternator common overlooked item . if pump does not run. install a good aftermarket replacement .search site for part numbers
 
J-bird

J-bird

Member
Re: Can someone look at these adl logs Please?

berzerker,

The chip is stock, I am just trying to figure out if my rough idle is mechanical or tuning related. I have and ostrich and lc-1 that may go in this weekend if I can find the time. The IC pump is hotwired and running, It should be flowing like a mother, but I need to move some of the lines around for better flow. I also have a cone filter in the batterys origonal location, with the IC pump under it. I will eventualy make a heat sheild for it or relocate the filter under the finder liner behind the fog light.
filter.jpg

pump.jpg

Thanks for lookin

Jeremy
 
SBNova

SBNova

New member
Re: Can someone look at these adl logs Please?

As said, your O2 mv are supposed to fluctuate.
Having 12 deg KR leads me to believe you are running lean, or mmaybe you dont have a stock chip. The fuel pumps in these trucks are marginal. My ty had lot of kr, and it was due to debris in the FP inlet- the sock had torn. I replaced it with a walbro pump and it made a huge difference, even at idle.
 
J-bird

J-bird

Member
Re: Can someone look at these adl logs Please?

What was your FP doing before and after you installed the new fuel pump. I just got my FP guage hooked up and the FP looks good to me. I thought the pump might be going bad but the pressure looks real good. still having a lot of knock retard, and the truck is only boosting to 11psi with the stock controller plugged in and only 4 with it unplugged. I have unhooked the vacuum hose to the WG and I ca boost over that so I assume it is the actuator rod. I am woried about the knock so I am not ready to fix this problem.

Is it possable to the fuel pump to have good pressure and not be flowing enuogh to keep up with the engine?

Also, the exhaust is rubbing on the rear spring before it exits the rear, could the knock censor be seeing this as knock?

Thanks
 
SBNova

SBNova

New member
Re: Can someone look at these adl logs Please?

Is it possable to the fuel pump to have good pressure and not be flowing enuogh to keep up with the engine?
Click to expand...

YES! When you check pressure your probably doing it with the engine idling. Under WOT, you are using alot more fuel. If you could check it at WOT you may see a difference. My Ty had great idle pressures. After the fuel pump change, my idle, cruise and WOT all improved- by more than I couldve imagined.

When I took my stock pump out I realized why I had a problem. The sock had deteriorated and clogged the fuel pump inlet. If I had opted to clean it out it may have fixed my problems, but since I already bought the Walbro there was no way I wasn't going to use it.

For your EGR, take it out and clean it. Review your data logs. When the EGR is open, your IAT's will climb. EGR is not (supposed to be) operative under WOT conditions, but its very actice at cruise, which is why your IAT's were so high at cruise. When you get the Ostrich running you can disable the EGR and compare the IAT's to what you used to run. I was planning to leave the EGR enabled, but on one cruise I saw temps almost 200 degrees. I figured that even when it closed under WOT that the intake would take quite a while to cool down from those kind of temps, costing performance. My EGR is now disabled, but I would like to initiate a limited EGR function in the future just so it all works. Maybe lower the duty cycle, or alter its operational parameters to better suit my driving.
 
J-bird

J-bird

Member
Re: Can someone look at these adl logs Please?

I have about 50psi with vacuum unplugged, around 45psi with it plugged in, and over 61psi at 12 pounds of boost. I have also removed the egr valve and all vacuum hoses related to it. from what i understand this is more FP than I should be having with a stock regulator, is it too much? also is it posable that I'm having fuel pump problems even with good pressure? I know I'll be putting a better pump in soon, but now I think It'll wait until I replace the transmission that now seems to be going out!!(fun fun)

Thanks,

Jeremy
 
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