Battery relocation precautions.
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myclone
Donating Member
Re: Battery relocation precautions.
There really isnt a reliable/easy way to put a fusable link in the pos cable with such a large amp draw. It can be done but will require a pretty heavy/clunky contactor which IMO is another piece to fail and leave you along side the road unable to start your truck.
You could technically put a starter selonoid in the pos cable at the battery which only closes when the starter is engaged but youll need another sizable cable to run the lights, gauges, and other electrical do dads which would still be a fire hazard should a short happen somewhere.
I run a relocated battery but I completely gutted the battery side of the starting circuit and did it myself instead of trying to piece it togeather using the existing cables from the front mounted battery. IMO the key to it is using common sense on how you route the cables, solder the terminals on the ends of the cables as well as crimping them, putting split loom over the cables for abbrassion protection (the good stuff not the cheapy loom from chain stores), use the correct sized cable (I used welding lead cable), and putting some thought into the install. Lots of vehicles that use WAY more power than a syty have batteries located far from the engine compartment so its not a huge deal if done correctly. Almost all big rigs have their batteries mounted under the cab on the outside of the frame as well as large fire/rescue trucks and go many years/hundereds of thousands of miles without issue. Im sure there are more vehicles that do the same but fire trucks/semis are what Im familiar with.
HTH
There really isnt a reliable/easy way to put a fusable link in the pos cable with such a large amp draw. It can be done but will require a pretty heavy/clunky contactor which IMO is another piece to fail and leave you along side the road unable to start your truck.
You could technically put a starter selonoid in the pos cable at the battery which only closes when the starter is engaged but youll need another sizable cable to run the lights, gauges, and other electrical do dads which would still be a fire hazard should a short happen somewhere.
I run a relocated battery but I completely gutted the battery side of the starting circuit and did it myself instead of trying to piece it togeather using the existing cables from the front mounted battery. IMO the key to it is using common sense on how you route the cables, solder the terminals on the ends of the cables as well as crimping them, putting split loom over the cables for abbrassion protection (the good stuff not the cheapy loom from chain stores), use the correct sized cable (I used welding lead cable), and putting some thought into the install. Lots of vehicles that use WAY more power than a syty have batteries located far from the engine compartment so its not a huge deal if done correctly. Almost all big rigs have their batteries mounted under the cab on the outside of the frame as well as large fire/rescue trucks and go many years/hundereds of thousands of miles without issue. Im sure there are more vehicles that do the same but fire trucks/semis are what Im familiar with.
HTH
Re: Battery relocation precautions.
Where can you find some spare welding lead? Would any local welding shop have some? And I'm guessing you can run the positive to a terminal somewhere under the hood, and connect the stock lines to that since it is the same point electrically? I've been thinking of doing this on my truck for some time, and just moved into a place with a nice garage, and finally have some spare time.
Where can you find some spare welding lead? Would any local welding shop have some? And I'm guessing you can run the positive to a terminal somewhere under the hood, and connect the stock lines to that since it is the same point electrically? I've been thinking of doing this on my truck for some time, and just moved into a place with a nice garage, and finally have some spare time.
Re: Battery relocation precautions.
I did try to use caution when routing the cable.I completely ditched all stock wires and redid everything from scrath with new wire(welding cable) It is triple loomed the entire way and has heat shielding anywhere even remotely close to exhaust, I did not use a remote solenoid. My setup is welding cable from battery to starter, then from starter to alt. Battery is grounded to rear frame and engine is grounded to frame up front, I also added a extra cab to frame ground. I guess I was just looking for some added protection incase anything happened. I highly doubt the postive cable could ever ground to the frame and cause a problem the way i routed everything, but better safe than sorry I always say.
And to poster above yes The cable should be available and any welding supply store.
I did try to use caution when routing the cable.I completely ditched all stock wires and redid everything from scrath with new wire(welding cable) It is triple loomed the entire way and has heat shielding anywhere even remotely close to exhaust, I did not use a remote solenoid. My setup is welding cable from battery to starter, then from starter to alt. Battery is grounded to rear frame and engine is grounded to frame up front, I also added a extra cab to frame ground. I guess I was just looking for some added protection incase anything happened. I highly doubt the postive cable could ever ground to the frame and cause a problem the way i routed everything, but better safe than sorry I always say.
And to poster above yes The cable should be available and any welding supply store.
Re: Battery relocation precautions.
Thanks man.....Guess I get to call around on some pricing and what not now....WooHoo
Sounds like the truck is still doing well.....I remember riding in it about 3 years ago when I brought that bed out to your buddy in Vegas (another one of my crazier ideas)........
syntax said:
Thanks man.....Guess I get to call around on some pricing and what not now....WooHoo
Sounds like the truck is still doing well.....I remember riding in it about 3 years ago when I brought that bed out to your buddy in Vegas (another one of my crazier ideas)........
Ian Turgeon
Cascading Inspiration
Re: Battery relocation precautions.
http://stores.ebay.com/Genuinedealz_W0QQssPageNameZl2QQtZkm
I dont know how their prices compare to non stereo cable, but this is the supplier I used. I like the cable a lot more then some of the other stuff out there.
They have the lugs and adhesive lined heatshrink too... All worked out very well on my truck.
http://stores.ebay.com/Genuinedealz_W0QQssPageNameZl2QQtZkm
I dont know how their prices compare to non stereo cable, but this is the supplier I used. I like the cable a lot more then some of the other stuff out there.
They have the lugs and adhesive lined heatshrink too... All worked out very well on my truck.
myclone
Donating Member
Re: Battery relocation precautions.
That guy has everything you would need to do a pos cable install for a rear mount battery. The prices seem fair IMO but I didnt check what shipping costs would be. I think I spent about 75 bucks on ~30ft of 2gauge welding cable at the local welding supply store when I did my truck.
You as well as most other ppl prolly know this but it warrants repeating. Stay away from stereo cable when it comes to wiring for the starter. Inrush current is several hundred amps and starting current can top 100 amps. Stereo cable may be physically large enough but the insulation is not rated for the type of enviroment a rear mounted battery will subject it to. Keep the stereo stuff for the stereo.....BTW, this comes from someone who lost a very nice S10 to an electrical fire many years ago from a crappy stereo install (thank you once again Circuit Ciy :roll: ).
SyTyArchives said:
That guy has everything you would need to do a pos cable install for a rear mount battery. The prices seem fair IMO but I didnt check what shipping costs would be. I think I spent about 75 bucks on ~30ft of 2gauge welding cable at the local welding supply store when I did my truck.
You as well as most other ppl prolly know this but it warrants repeating. Stay away from stereo cable when it comes to wiring for the starter. Inrush current is several hundred amps and starting current can top 100 amps. Stereo cable may be physically large enough but the insulation is not rated for the type of enviroment a rear mounted battery will subject it to. Keep the stereo stuff for the stereo.....BTW, this comes from someone who lost a very nice S10 to an electrical fire many years ago from a crappy stereo install (thank you once again Circuit Ciy :roll: ).
Ian Turgeon
Cascading Inspiration
Re: Battery relocation precautions.
6 hours for them to install my alarm when I first got my truck.... the installer owned a 92 sonoma... they burnt up one alarm brain and couldnt figure out the door locks...
It took me less time to do an alarm install when I didnt know anything about what I was doing.
myclone said:
6 hours for them to install my alarm when I first got my truck.... the installer owned a 92 sonoma... they burnt up one alarm brain and couldnt figure out the door locks...
It took me less time to do an alarm install when I didnt know anything about what I was doing.
