I have 3 vehicles besides my Syclone truck. In 8 years of ownership, I've replaced the battery 5 times - I use a battery tender once a week during the summer and store it for the winter with the tender on. My other vehicles go an average of 7 years with mid-grade batteries.....I know the heat underhood is brutal in normal driving. Anybody with similar experience??? Recommendations?? Solutions??? (yes, I did search already.......) Brian
battery lifespan???
- Thread starter bdawg
- Start date
Couger1968
Dazed and Confused
Re: battery lifespan???
I agree I go at least 8-10 years with my tendered batteries. I have 6 batteries. My battery that came with the truck a Diehard is still around after 16 years, although I don't use it in a vehicle anymore. I have good luck with diehard, but they just get them from whoever gives them the best deal.
I agree I go at least 8-10 years with my tendered batteries. I have 6 batteries. My battery that came with the truck a Diehard is still around after 16 years, although I don't use it in a vehicle anymore. I have good luck with diehard, but they just get them from whoever gives them the best deal.
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MICH TY
Donating Member
Couger1968
Dazed and Confused
Re: battery lifespan???
I have a 4 bank deltran battery tender that I keep things hooked to whenever I am home. I do have to rotate it around a bit.
I have a 4 bank deltran battery tender that I keep things hooked to whenever I am home. I do have to rotate it around a bit.
NOJIMMY
New member
Re: battery lifespan???
You probably know the following but is being repeated for thoroughness
(e.g. there are many types of car batteries which the appropriate charger "should" recognize):
1. Wet/Flooded Battery: The wet/flooded battery is popular because the battery price is very low.
These are maintenance free and sealed so no gases are replaced.
The fluid in the battery will last until the battery dies and you do not have to keep topping it off.
2. Calcium-Calcium Battery: This battery has a calcium alloy that is on the different charged plates.
This calcium reduces the amount of fluid loss and the rate of self discharge is much slower. The main
disadvantage is that you can seriously damage the battery if you overcharge it. The bubbles that move
through the fluid are important, as they are responsible for mixing the different acid densities.
3. VRLA: The VRLA stands for a valve regulated lead acid battery. This name really describes the safety valves
that are on the battery box. The safety valves are all pressurized. By containing the gas in the battery it will mix and
form water so you stop any fluid loss. There are two main designs of this VRLA battery: AGM or GEL.
or electric vehicles. You will also find these used to collect and store solar and wind power. They are typically not used for cars
because they have a high discharge rate, so the battery will run down very quickly. If you do not drive your car for a long time,
then you will not sufficiently recharge the battery.
5. Lithium Ion Battery: Some high performance vehicles or limited edition cars will offer a lithium ion battery.
This battery is used primarily for electric vehicles, as they are much lighter which provides a more fuel efficient vehicle.
The Porsche 911 2010 model uses the lithium ion battery for starting.
Inexpensive off the shelf chargers such as the type often found at retail outlets and certain other online stores may
not work well with every type of battery. Specifically microprocessor controlled chargers, also known as Smart Chargers,
are designed to charge lead acid and other types of batteries based on computer generated algorithms.
Simply put, the charger collects information from the battery and adjusts the charge current and voltage based on this information.
This allows the battery to be charged quickly, correctly, and completely when using a smart charger.
Smart chargers can remain connected to the battery(s) indefinitely and will not overcharge or damage your battery(s). -
Determine what type of battery or batteries you will be charging. Maintenance Free, Wet Cell (flooded), AGM (absorbed glass mat),
Gel Cell or VRLA (valve regulated lead acid). In most cases one charger will work for all types except for Gel Cell.
What size is your battery? What I mean is not physical size, but how many Amp hours does your battery store.
As an example, a typical full size auto battery is about 50 amp hours, and it would take a 10 amp charger approximately 6 hours
to recharge it if the battery were completely dead. Another example, a Marine Deep Cycle Battery may be rated at 100 amp hours,
so it would take a 10 amp charger about 11 hours to recharge a dead battery to near 100% full charge, from a completely discharged condition.
To calculate your total charge time, a good rule of thumb is to take the amp hour rating of the battery and divide by the charger rating (amps)
and then add about 10% for the extra time to totally top off the battery.
Some folks need to size the charge for quick recharge, therefore requiring more amps from their charger. Others are not in a hurry and
may select a smaller charger. The most important thing here is to make sure you have enough charger power to do the job you require
in the time you allocate.
Lastly like everything else in this world, battery companies have "off-shored" plants to cut costs.
Previously reliable companies/batteries may not be the same in today's economy.
...hope this helps
You probably know the following but is being repeated for thoroughness
(e.g. there are many types of car batteries which the appropriate charger "should" recognize):
1. Wet/Flooded Battery: The wet/flooded battery is popular because the battery price is very low.
These are maintenance free and sealed so no gases are replaced.
The fluid in the battery will last until the battery dies and you do not have to keep topping it off.
2. Calcium-Calcium Battery: This battery has a calcium alloy that is on the different charged plates.
This calcium reduces the amount of fluid loss and the rate of self discharge is much slower. The main
disadvantage is that you can seriously damage the battery if you overcharge it. The bubbles that move
through the fluid are important, as they are responsible for mixing the different acid densities.
3. VRLA: The VRLA stands for a valve regulated lead acid battery. This name really describes the safety valves
that are on the battery box. The safety valves are all pressurized. By containing the gas in the battery it will mix and
form water so you stop any fluid loss. There are two main designs of this VRLA battery: AGM or GEL.
- A GEL battery uses silicon to make the acid more solid and like a gel. This type of battery is very good
but is not the best for a starter battery.
but is not the best for a starter battery.
-The AGM battery uses absorbed glass matt. The matts are very thin, which keeps internal resistance very low.
This makes it a perfect battery for starting a car, as you can get a lot of power out of very small volume.
4. Deep Cycle: A deep cycle battery will provide power for a very long time. These are typically used on small boats, golf carts, This makes it a perfect battery for starting a car, as you can get a lot of power out of very small volume.
or electric vehicles. You will also find these used to collect and store solar and wind power. They are typically not used for cars
because they have a high discharge rate, so the battery will run down very quickly. If you do not drive your car for a long time,
then you will not sufficiently recharge the battery.
5. Lithium Ion Battery: Some high performance vehicles or limited edition cars will offer a lithium ion battery.
This battery is used primarily for electric vehicles, as they are much lighter which provides a more fuel efficient vehicle.
The Porsche 911 2010 model uses the lithium ion battery for starting.
Inexpensive off the shelf chargers such as the type often found at retail outlets and certain other online stores may
not work well with every type of battery. Specifically microprocessor controlled chargers, also known as Smart Chargers,
are designed to charge lead acid and other types of batteries based on computer generated algorithms.
Simply put, the charger collects information from the battery and adjusts the charge current and voltage based on this information.
This allows the battery to be charged quickly, correctly, and completely when using a smart charger.
Smart chargers can remain connected to the battery(s) indefinitely and will not overcharge or damage your battery(s). -
Determine what type of battery or batteries you will be charging. Maintenance Free, Wet Cell (flooded), AGM (absorbed glass mat),
Gel Cell or VRLA (valve regulated lead acid). In most cases one charger will work for all types except for Gel Cell.
What size is your battery? What I mean is not physical size, but how many Amp hours does your battery store.
As an example, a typical full size auto battery is about 50 amp hours, and it would take a 10 amp charger approximately 6 hours
to recharge it if the battery were completely dead. Another example, a Marine Deep Cycle Battery may be rated at 100 amp hours,
so it would take a 10 amp charger about 11 hours to recharge a dead battery to near 100% full charge, from a completely discharged condition.
To calculate your total charge time, a good rule of thumb is to take the amp hour rating of the battery and divide by the charger rating (amps)
and then add about 10% for the extra time to totally top off the battery.
Some folks need to size the charge for quick recharge, therefore requiring more amps from their charger. Others are not in a hurry and
may select a smaller charger. The most important thing here is to make sure you have enough charger power to do the job you require
in the time you allocate.
Lastly like everything else in this world, battery companies have "off-shored" plants to cut costs.
Previously reliable companies/batteries may not be the same in today's economy.
...hope this helps
Re: battery lifespan???
Thanks everyone....the original owner had a lojack system installed which I now understand is "hot" all the time. I disconnected the speaker (screamer) for ease of maintenance right after I bought it (since lojack had no service in my area) but never knew the lojack unit was still drawing. I just had the system totally removed and rewired the dash. Next step is to go battery shopping......Thanks again. This forum kicks ASS!
Thanks everyone....the original owner had a lojack system installed which I now understand is "hot" all the time. I disconnected the speaker (screamer) for ease of maintenance right after I bought it (since lojack had no service in my area) but never knew the lojack unit was still drawing. I just had the system totally removed and rewired the dash. Next step is to go battery shopping......Thanks again. This forum kicks ASS!
NOJIMMY
New member
Re: battery lifespan???
...Found on the Internet:
Optima has long been the default "best" expensive battery for the muscle car and hot rod owners. Unfortunately,
since the manufacturing location was moved from the States to Mexico a few years back, there have been a high
incident of returns and complaints on several car forums. Also, Optima Battery isn't honoring all of its warranty provisions.
Instead of allowing consumers to go to any authorized Optima dealership or distributor for warranty service, as their
written warranty maintains - Optima Battery insists consumers only get service from the company that sold them their battery.
Four companies make most of the car batteries. East Penn Deka, Johnson controls, AC Delco and Exide.
Exide went bankrupt and Johnson Controls (Kirkland, Optima and Interstate) moved to Mexico and with their product
(quality control) suffering. Some brands last for years but also fail quickly. Companies manufacture batteries to their customer's specs.
Walmart for example, will order different specs and the battery is NOT the same as other batteries made by that manufacturer.
Big-name battery brands DieHard (Sears and Kmart), EverStart (Walmart), and Interstate all top Consumer Reports Ratings in some group
sizes, but they are at or near the bottom in others. The greatest inconsistency by magazines came from DieHard, which makes both the best and worst
performers in two of six common sizes tested. Some great batteries are made overseas. Korea and the Phillipines make some of the best standard
flooded lead acid.
...Personally:
I been told it is HEAT that kills batteries but cold required more cranking amps to turn over a starter and engine.
I long suspected vibration also plays a role as well (but have no proof). Supposedly AGM batteries are "best in class"
with Oddessy the most preferred. But AGM is expensive. If you have remotely located your battery to the rear and drive
your vehicle sparingly you might want "no spillage", "deep cycling/charging", "large cranking amps", and a reasonable size-weight
battery that can be accessed via a Smart Charger during storage.
-Larry Brown
NoJimmy AWD LS7 Typhoon
...Found on the Internet:
Optima has long been the default "best" expensive battery for the muscle car and hot rod owners. Unfortunately,
since the manufacturing location was moved from the States to Mexico a few years back, there have been a high
incident of returns and complaints on several car forums. Also, Optima Battery isn't honoring all of its warranty provisions.
Instead of allowing consumers to go to any authorized Optima dealership or distributor for warranty service, as their
written warranty maintains - Optima Battery insists consumers only get service from the company that sold them their battery.
Four companies make most of the car batteries. East Penn Deka, Johnson controls, AC Delco and Exide.
Exide went bankrupt and Johnson Controls (Kirkland, Optima and Interstate) moved to Mexico and with their product
(quality control) suffering. Some brands last for years but also fail quickly. Companies manufacture batteries to their customer's specs.
Walmart for example, will order different specs and the battery is NOT the same as other batteries made by that manufacturer.
Big-name battery brands DieHard (Sears and Kmart), EverStart (Walmart), and Interstate all top Consumer Reports Ratings in some group
sizes, but they are at or near the bottom in others. The greatest inconsistency by magazines came from DieHard, which makes both the best and worst
performers in two of six common sizes tested. Some great batteries are made overseas. Korea and the Phillipines make some of the best standard
flooded lead acid.
...Personally:
I been told it is HEAT that kills batteries but cold required more cranking amps to turn over a starter and engine.
I long suspected vibration also plays a role as well (but have no proof). Supposedly AGM batteries are "best in class"
with Oddessy the most preferred. But AGM is expensive. If you have remotely located your battery to the rear and drive
your vehicle sparingly you might want "no spillage", "deep cycling/charging", "large cranking amps", and a reasonable size-weight
battery that can be accessed via a Smart Charger during storage.
-Larry Brown
NoJimmy AWD LS7 Typhoon
cloneman315
Active member
Re: battery lifespan???
My PC680 has been in my tuck since 2005!! Its been on a tender the entire time. I keep tenders on everything I own. Including the wife! I also have a kill switch that I turn off every time the truck is sitting.
My PC680 has been in my tuck since 2005!! Its been on a tender the entire time. I keep tenders on everything I own. Including the wife! I also have a kill switch that I turn off every time the truck is sitting.
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Davemc1963
93 Ty Owner
Re: battery lifespan???
My Optima red top failed earlier this year. It was the most expensive battery I have ever bought and was about five years old. This is the shortest lifespan of any battery I have had over the last 25 years. I suspect it was faulty from new, as it always seemed to loose charge over time and often required recharging.
After it failed, I stuck on a Bosch battery that I had kicking around that was on a car I bought over 7 years ago. At a guess and as I knew the previous owner, I would say it is at least 10 years old and still going strong. It also appears to retain its charge too!
My Optima red top failed earlier this year. It was the most expensive battery I have ever bought and was about five years old. This is the shortest lifespan of any battery I have had over the last 25 years. I suspect it was faulty from new, as it always seemed to loose charge over time and often required recharging.
After it failed, I stuck on a Bosch battery that I had kicking around that was on a car I bought over 7 years ago. At a guess and as I knew the previous owner, I would say it is at least 10 years old and still going strong. It also appears to retain its charge too!
syclone809
Member
Re: battery lifespan???
I use an Odyssey Extreme PC925LMJ (L is for left hand positive and MJ is for the metal jacket surrounding it) in stock battery location, have had it for 4+ years and only discharged once when my truck sat for a lengthy period of time with no tender. I paid around $130ish for it. The metal jacket was a deciding factor in purchasing, I almost bought a Carbon Fiber Braille battery, but couldn't justify spending almost double.
I use an Odyssey Extreme PC925LMJ (L is for left hand positive and MJ is for the metal jacket surrounding it) in stock battery location, have had it for 4+ years and only discharged once when my truck sat for a lengthy period of time with no tender. I paid around $130ish for it. The metal jacket was a deciding factor in purchasing, I almost bought a Carbon Fiber Braille battery, but couldn't justify spending almost double.