ABS delete by replacing lines

[AppleTY]

I would like to get rid of my ABS by replacing the lines with a new set for a std Blazer/Jimmy.

Has anyone else done it this way? Is there anything I should know about / watch out for?

 

[atomicmecha]

Re: ABS delete by replacing lines

just get a delete kit from hoodtune or sportmachine. Comes with all the fittings, and cut to the correct length. Will make things quick any easy.

 

[AppleTY]

Re: ABS delete by replacing lines

Pick-ups 88 and earlier, I think, don't have rear antilock. Same with the 2-doors. All 4-doors have 4WAL, so no 4-doors will be a donor.
The front lines and T can come from any rear anti lock donor, as the front lines are not affected by RWAL. So any 1st gen pick-up or 2-door prior to 92 when it got 4WAL like the 4-door can donate the front lines, which are the fussiest to make.

You need 3 lines from the donor:
Combo valve to the rear union fitting.
Combo valve to t-union at LF
Short jumper from t-union to LF caliper hose.
T-union.

IIRC, these lines are the same for 2 and 4 wheel drive S-series.

These early trucks are getting scarce in the yards. And brake lines are subject to rust. Personally, I'd fab my own lines from pieces from the parts house. I have a double-flare tool, and know how to use it. I've made lots of brake lines. You can also use the nuts off the original lines, and use bulk tubing. For the rear line, I'd shorten the existing line. The little LF line is kind of fussy, but doable. If you go this route, take a line off the truck with you so you can match the thread size and flare type.

The Hood kit is OK, and he's sold a zillion of them. Personally, I don't like all the potential leak-paths that kit has with all the adapter fittings, but I'm sure that once installed and verified leak-free, it is fine. For my .02 I'd buy a 5' length of 3/16 tubing, a 1/4" inverted flare T, come home get out my flare tools, and an hour later using the take-off flare nuts, call it done. Looks cleaner too.

Yeah, I was just going to order pre-bent SS lines from OnlineTubing or LMC. I was hoping I could order the entire set for the truck, but sounds like the RWAL is the issue.
What is different about the RWAL? Larger tubing?
If I got a complete set from a 1st Gen, would that be a problem?

 

[Rice Eater]

Re: ABS delete by replacing lines

Yeah, I was just going to order pre-bent SS lines from OnlineTubing or LMC. I was hoping I could order the entire set for the truck, but sounds like the RWAL is the issue.
What is different about the RWAL? Larger tubing?
If I got a complete set from a 1st Gen, would that be a problem?

Inline Tube has a kit specific for the SyTy, not sure if it is the same as the gen 1 S15. I bought the brake line kit and just spoke to them on Friday about fuel lines.

Chris

 

[AppleTY]

Re: ABS delete by replacing lines

There's a solenoid/actuator in the rear brake line between the combination valve and the union on the frame.
So the rear line on a RWAL won't work. Rear brake tubing is the same size on all S-series.

After posting the above, I looked at a Syclone on my lift that has the wheels and inner fenders removed. It would be a slam-dunk to cut and re-flare the existing rear line. The front lines could be cut, re-flared and reconfigured to join at a T at the LF union, and the existing RF line used to go to the combination valve.

The owner of this truck wants to remove the 4WAL. I may just try this idea out. I think it could be finished in less time that placing the order for a "kit". And cost about $4 for the T.

That's a pretty smart solution. If I had a lift, I would probably be much more likely to entertain the idea. Unfortunately, I don't have the tools or the time to try that out.

If the rear for S-series are all the same, then I should be able to get the full kit for like 82-88 shortbed (I think).

 

[denny]

Re: ABS delete by replacing lines

There's a solenoid/actuator in the rear brake line between the combination valve and the union on the frame.
So the rear line on a RWAL won't work. Rear brake tubing is the same size on all S-series.

After posting the above, I looked at a Syclone on my lift that has the wheels and inner fenders removed. It would be a slam-dunk to cut and re-flare the existing rear line. The front lines could be cut, re-flared and reconfigured to join at a T at the LF union, and the existing RF line used to go to the combination valve.

The owner of this truck wants to remove the 4WAL. I may just try this idea out. I think it could be finished in less time that placing the order for a "kit". And cost about $4 for the T.

Exactly what I did on my Syclone.