A/C R&R need help + part numbers

nborton

New member
My A/C has been out for awhile. I have been hesitant to tackle it since I know nothing about A/C. My buddy works as a tech at a dealer and doesn't deal too much with A/C but knows enough to help, so we tried. He had access to a R12 evacuator and saved the remaining 1.5lbs in there, good thing I have an old can of R12 lying around too. :) I'll be able to charge it back up. It's 2.5lbs right? how much oil goes in it?

Basically I am replacing the compressor, the drier, and the orifice tube due to compressor bearing failure. I purchased a new Delphi 3005 from Napa. The old orifice tube was completely saturated with metal shavings. We blew out the hoses with compressed air and hopefully got out the remaining shavings.

The new compressor is in (I'll interject that those bolts are a PIA to get off, they have a flat side to clear the pully, but you can't take them off from the back, so the bracket got chipped where the flat side used to rest :( ) The new drier and orifice tube are in, but we have a leak, it will only vacuum down to -15 instead of -30 after 15minutes.

The first suspect is the o-ring that goes on the orifice tube, the new tube did not come with one, so we had to re-use. Can someone please tell me a part number, where I can get it, anything?

The second suspect is the Compressor instructions did not have the compressor model number I have listed for what gaskets to use. The old compressor, the diameter of one of the holes was noticably smaller but the new one had two 5/8 inputs that were the same. We ended up not using the insert that may make the opening smaller as the gasket seemed to stick out to far. The two gaskets that came off the truck were both thin. We used one thin one included with the new compressor that fit perfect, and then a green one that was included on the other which almost fit perfect, it was a little thicker. Should I just get different gaskets here? Where can I get them? I'm assuming that the oem ones would be compatible with the compressor, am I correct.

The third possible spot is that we neglected to use the washer that goes between the input/output lines connected to the compressor? Mainly because my buddy didn't see where it came from and then we used it to go between a bolt and the right most bracket, the outer nut. Is this important to sealing? Where can I get one if so.

Any advice is grealty appreciated, I'm frustrated :( We can do a dye test, but hope to avoid spending too much time, this thing already has 3 hours of my life, and his dealership is only open for limited hours to do personal R&R.

thanks in advance
 

turbodog

Donating Member
Hi. I'm not a certified AC guy, but have done a few R134 conversions on S-trucks. First off, if your orifice tube was full of metal, the rest of the system probably is also. I know it is painful, but you really, really should replace the condenser, and flush the evaporator and the lines. Your brand new compressor may not last a week if you skimp on this.

As for the leak:
If you were going with R134, I'd say put a few cans in it with a dye and find the leak. You can still do this, but you need to lube the compressor first with PAG oil and only run the AC a few minutes to pressurize it to find the leak. Then vent, ur, I mean reclaim the 134, fix the leak, vacuum it down, and charge with R12 and oil.

I'd say the compressor manifold block (and O-ring selection) is your likely leak suspect (are you saying there are NO O-rings between the manifold block and the compressor?? If so, this is definitely a problem), but web-forum-diagnostics are pretty worthless in this case.

As for oil volume, look here:
http://www.lowesville.com/prod32.htm
 

nborton

New member
Ok, my condensor finally came in. Can someone tell me if I can install this from the front by removing the grill, or does the radiator have to come out?

Also, I bought new hoses as well, am I missing anything putting this back together? any secrets to make sure it's all sealed up and ready for the freon?

thanks
 

turbodog

Donating Member
The condensor can be replaced without removing the radiator. Just the grille. Where did you get the hose assembly? Dealer? Would you mind saying how much you paid?

Sounds like you have everything. Did you get the o-ring's between the hose manifold block and compressor sorted out? Seems like the last time I did this, the compressor instructions said what the final gap between the block and compressor body (with o-rings in place and compressed) should be. I dimly recall it was .030", but not sure.

Flushing the evaporator would be a good idea, but since passages are much larger than the orifice tube, it has the least likelyhood of having debris in it which will frag a compressor.

The test for leakage is to vacuum the system down (with a vacuum guage between the vacuum-pump valve and the AC system) for at least 45 min, even if the pressure doesn't seem to be going down further. Then close the valve to the pump and let it sit. Vacuum should hold steady (lose no more than 1/2 in Hg) for an hour. If it holds vacuum, you have no leaks.
 
Top