9/11 converter
- Thread starter sytyfreak
- Start date
MR_MNZTR_SY
New member
they stopped making it i hear. something new and better was supposed to come out but i have no idea what happened to it
Pittman
New member
I had an Art Car built. Really expensive but has survived a lot of luanches plus they will re-stall it for free for a year. This is really needed if you going to do alot of mods. Mine was a perfect 2900rpm stall but with all the new mods it will spin well past 3k.
In case you didnt know stall speed is proportional to torque. You can call them order a 10" tell them the amount of torque you have and they can put it right on the numbers.
In case you didnt know stall speed is proportional to torque. You can call them order a 10" tell them the amount of torque you have and they can put it right on the numbers.
ghettosled
SYTY SUPERSTORE
I was able to get my hands on some of the last 9/11s before they discontinued them. I have one 3000 stall left over. $695. The new ones are over $900 according to hartman.
TheObiJuan
Active member
are the new ones not going to have the shudder that the 9/11 sometimes suffered from?
B
Blake
Guest
If you get one and it shudders with new fluid or klangs when you first start it up, it is most likely bad. Klanging on startup in a classic sign of converter failure. The clanging will subside after a few seconds then it MAY run ok for 10-20 miles then start shuddering. Even if you change fluid. Converters are NOT supposed to do this. Some people had a vibration. Mine had a NASTY shudder that you could feel in the floor and hear coming from right beside your right foot, right where the converter is.
Try a 12" higher stall. 2600-3000rpm. Anything over 3000 rpm and it will severely affect driveability. There is a torque converter manufacturing facility about 15 minutes from my home that I consulted with. They are the ones who built the converter that is in my truck now.
My 9/11's driveability sucked because it had failed on startup, slowly dumping metal into the valvebody, cooler, and tranny. They are not all bad. There are those of us that did get bad models though. The more of something is sold, the more likely you'll find bad ones. Just the way manufacturing is.
The price crept up over time supposedly due to increases in the quality of parts used in the manufacture... :roll: ....Brian wrote on here somewhere that there was a release spring/washer that was deleted in the design of the old 9/11. Very well may have been responsible for the VIBRATION people feel at certain rpms.
Don't know if this helped explain the difference well enough between vibration characteristic of the 9/11 and the shudder of a bad converter(not just a 9/11...any converter).
Blake
Try a 12" higher stall. 2600-3000rpm. Anything over 3000 rpm and it will severely affect driveability. There is a torque converter manufacturing facility about 15 minutes from my home that I consulted with. They are the ones who built the converter that is in my truck now.
My 9/11's driveability sucked because it had failed on startup, slowly dumping metal into the valvebody, cooler, and tranny. They are not all bad. There are those of us that did get bad models though. The more of something is sold, the more likely you'll find bad ones. Just the way manufacturing is.
The price crept up over time supposedly due to increases in the quality of parts used in the manufacture... :roll: ....Brian wrote on here somewhere that there was a release spring/washer that was deleted in the design of the old 9/11. Very well may have been responsible for the VIBRATION people feel at certain rpms.
Don't know if this helped explain the difference well enough between vibration characteristic of the 9/11 and the shudder of a bad converter(not just a 9/11...any converter).
Blake
0966Sy
Code what?
Blake, I have a 12'' 2800 stall w/ lock-up, and it has been awsome with my stock turbo. But im looking for a quicker spool-up and one that can be used with a PTE60 model turbo. I have a tranny temp guage and a cooler and a derale tranny pan and my temps on my virgin tranny stay in the 150's. Hopefully i can get the same results with the 9/11, but with a harder launch and spool-up. It does kinda bother me about the "bad" 9/11's out there with my virgin tranny. :roll:
Erik
Erik
ghettosled
SYTY SUPERSTORE
Blake, might be a dumb question but how much fluid did you dump into the converter before you pushed it on the spline?
Also sometimes the bearing the converter sits on has evenen wear on it and causes the new converter to slosh around. I had a local customer this happened to and it wasted the new converter. We fixed the bearing and got another 9/11 and all was great.
Also sometimes the bearing the converter sits on has evenen wear on it and causes the new converter to slosh around. I had a local customer this happened to and it wasted the new converter. We fixed the bearing and got another 9/11 and all was great.
B
Blake
Guest
I forget exactly how much it was. I laid the converter on the floor and just kept pouring tranny fluid into it until it wouldn't take any more. Some spilled out on me when I installed it, but I thought it was worth it to prevent any chance of a "dry start". I also prelubed the stub of the converter with a transgel/tranny fluid mixture so that cool too.
Everything in the tranny was new. All bushings were new. Pump bushing was new, loctited and staked in place with the seam pointed in the direction preferred by the ATSG. Bushing installed straight. Tried with the check ball in the end of the input shaft and with it removed. Didn't make any difference.
Converter was also installed completely into the pump assembly correctly. I have heard of people sticking the converter on but not rotating it until it seated correctly. Then they use the bellhousing bolts to kinda smash everything together. This wasn't the case with mine. I have a video at home that shows how to PROPERLY install a converter with measurements of clearances after being installed correctly.
The normal 12" converter I have now has zero problems.
Just had a bad 9/11 converter. It just kept dumping crud/metal into the tranny and shuddering really bad. Teeth chattering shudder.
Not worth the trouble and headache. Only good thing about it is that I got REALLY good at pulling a tranny. :banghead:
Blake
PS: I feel I really need to add this: I'm not trying to say that ALL 9/11s are bad. Every single one that Mike has may be just fine. Every one could be bad (but I seriously doubt it). I personally know 6 different people that have them. Some have vibration, one has no vibration. OF COURSE I get the bad one (failed on startup) in our bunch :-?
Everything in the tranny was new. All bushings were new. Pump bushing was new, loctited and staked in place with the seam pointed in the direction preferred by the ATSG. Bushing installed straight. Tried with the check ball in the end of the input shaft and with it removed. Didn't make any difference.
Converter was also installed completely into the pump assembly correctly. I have heard of people sticking the converter on but not rotating it until it seated correctly. Then they use the bellhousing bolts to kinda smash everything together. This wasn't the case with mine. I have a video at home that shows how to PROPERLY install a converter with measurements of clearances after being installed correctly.
The normal 12" converter I have now has zero problems.
Just had a bad 9/11 converter. It just kept dumping crud/metal into the tranny and shuddering really bad. Teeth chattering shudder.
Not worth the trouble and headache. Only good thing about it is that I got REALLY good at pulling a tranny. :banghead:
Blake
PS: I feel I really need to add this: I'm not trying to say that ALL 9/11s are bad. Every single one that Mike has may be just fine. Every one could be bad (but I seriously doubt it). I personally know 6 different people that have them. Some have vibration, one has no vibration. OF COURSE I get the bad one (failed on startup) in our bunch :-?
Brian Hartman
New member
New billet style 9/11 convertors are now available. These have a full billet cover. With a cover like this, you get more TCC apply surface, stronger TC integrity meaning it is a lot more ridged and less apt to balloon on you. Sure the hubs have always had an anti ballooning plate and a billet thrust ring, but under high torque applications, non-billet covers will balloon a bit, and they are lighter. I have sold the first several to people that have wanted them for a while. I'll take orders. Introductory pricing is $795 plus shipping and will go up a hundred dollars in about a month, I was told.
Drop me an email brianhartman@sprintmail.com if you have questions or want to get one. Drop me an email if you have questions about the 9/11 that you might of seen posted on the BB. If you have questions about shudder some people get, feel free to ask, I'd be happy to explain what the causes are. Many causes, but only one of the causes is actually the TC. If you have questions or need any DIY kits, feel free to ask.
I might have some homeless original 9/11's people want to sell when they upgrade. I'll have a list of available TC's as they upgrade.
Take care,
Drop me an email brianhartman@sprintmail.com if you have questions or want to get one. Drop me an email if you have questions about the 9/11 that you might of seen posted on the BB. If you have questions about shudder some people get, feel free to ask, I'd be happy to explain what the causes are. Many causes, but only one of the causes is actually the TC. If you have questions or need any DIY kits, feel free to ask.
I might have some homeless original 9/11's people want to sell when they upgrade. I'll have a list of available TC's as they upgrade.
Take care,