THEMADTYPH00N said:
leroy said:I am using one. Seems to work okay. I have a Mallory crank trigger too.
I still think the cheapest route would be to modify the stock distributor. Use the pickup coil for the crank trigger, and mount a magnet where the rotor goes, and install a sensor in the distributor cap for the cam sync. You may have more timing variation than using a balancer mounted trigger, but I haven't heard of that being a significant problem.
Jim
I'm gonna bolt this one on this weekend and snap some shots. I think this is the balancer to make this whole project go forward.
UR50SLO said::woot: :rock: :friends:
Sweeeeeeet!
I just got off the phone with "Chris" at BJH Ballancers. (1-510-797-6780)
He's able to make a SFI or non-sfi ballancer for us with what ever reluctor wheel Dig has.
I went over some prelim. estimates on costs... About 7-1500.00 in initial setup/final design
for the application we are doing and after that the ballancers with wheel and everything
setup to bolt on the engine would be in the 2-300.00 area (WD). Don't have to order any
specific amount of ballancers.
I wanted to research that as a option. If Dig/Renz/Hood have any interest in that as a
option there's the contact info. It might take a little extra money for each person to set
it up on their vehicle but the end result might be better if your taking the old one off
and putting a new one on that's ready to go. Takes alot of error out of the situation.
Just another idea.
~~Scott
sytyguy said:
sytyguy said:Okay, uploaded some crappy cell phone pics, but they at least show what we're working with.
Hood
I think this is getting a bit away from the original goals:
< $300 (Assuming a yard-sourced coil module)
Easy to install by average folks with average hand tools
No end-user fabrication involved.
Nice to know the option is there, but a $300 balancer makes this a nearly $500 setup.
MikeRenz said:So the wheel needs to be 3/8" thick, 6" in diameter (or diameter shouldn't really matter...just depends on where we end up mounting the sensor)...how big do the notches have to be?
sytyguy said:Pioneer Balancer
----------------------------------------------
Sealing Journal OD = 1.764"
Cast Area OD = 2.225"
Thickness of Inner Ring = .900"
Thickness of Outer Ring = .758"
-----------------------------------------------
Although, the cast area is a bit tapered (larger as it goes forward towards the bolt "spokes"), but the largest OD (at the spokes) is the above diameter.
Also, the inner ring is perfectly flush with the outer on the inside of the balancer......it sticks out a bit on the front (0.142"). If this is an issue I can research other balancers.
Hood
sytyguy said:6" OD should work as the balancer is 6.25" and the timing tab is much farther off center than the balancer. 3/8" thick should be cake with this balancer as the stock inner hub protrusion (from inner hub to face of outer hub - laterally speaking) had to be .500 and there was already a .300 gap b/t the inner hub and timing cover.
I'm expecting there to be at least .750 gap between this Pioneer balancer and the timing cover.
Hood