Re: Transfer Case problems...w/pics
Re: Transfer Case problems...w/pics
You can't tell by just looking at a viscous unless it's burnt brown and blue (I've got one here like that), or it's popped open.
The inner splined area of the viscous is actually independent of the rest. Basically the viscous is a clutch pack. If it's locked up solid, it is basically permanently engaged and allows no play anywhere and you get the hop and possibly other broken parts.
Here's a quickie on them:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential5.htm
Grab the planetary
pinion. Try to move it back and forth from the center. That'll tell you if the shaft is shot. Look to see if the shaft moves in the housing where it's staked. If it does, it's shot. There is no repair. They are throw away units. On the top and the bottom of the pinion gear (spur gear) is a heat treated waved washer. If this wears out, thins out, and breaks free, it will end up in places like the magnet.
The chain. They usually stretch out.
You've got it apart.
Spin the bearings. Do they do the "shhhhhhh"? If not, replace them.
You've gone through that much trouble.
Do the viscous, chain, and bearings.
If the planet is loose anywhere, replace it.
That thing on the magnet is either a washer from the planet, or a piece of the viscous that's sheered off.
Remove the rear tailhousing and inspect the bushing.
While you've got the rear housing off, pull up on the tail shaft to support it and remove the snap ring. Be CAREFUL. When the snap ring is removed, the rear shaft and ring gear WILL fall if you don't support it. Take the retaining ring out of the ring gear that holds it to the output shaft. That ring gear WILL be full of crud. Clean it out thoroughly. Look at the output shaft where the bearing is. There is a hole in the center. Make sure all of that is cleaned out and not blocked. That supplied lube to everything that moves inside the ring gear.
Every bolt that holds something together on the T-case gets 35 foot pounds except the bolt that holds the speed sensor on. Just hand tighten. Fill plugs just hand tighten with thread sealer (not red loctite, ooh, don't do that...I took apart one last week with that in it).
Black RTV 1/8" bead on one case half and on the tailhousing surface.
You'll need a gear puller to get the bearing off that retains the spacer, cog, and viscous onto the sun gear shaft. Use a bushing driver and press to get the bearing back (or the new bearing)when you replace the viscous.
Be careful if you install new seals. If you hammer them into place, the spring that pulls tension on the seal against the shaft wall can pop out. You can put it back in with patience and a 90 degree dental pic.
The rear output shaft seal for 32 spline setups in newer kits is a little different. Use a 2" PVC coupling like you'd get at LOWE's and a block of wood. You just place the wood on the coupling and hit it with a hammer and drive the seal in. Coat the ribbed surface of the seal where it contacts the aluminum of the tailhousing with vasoline or transgel and it'll slide right in with a few hits.
If the tailhousing bushing is spun out, the yoke on the rear driveshaft is bent. Replace it.
Something that really helps when you reassemble everything is, after you get the output shaft/ring gear assembly back in and the tailhousing back on, is to sit it in a 5 gallon bucket so it points everything up better. Works really well and makes it a lot easier to keep the smaller thrust washer in place so you can drop the input shaft in easier.
