Trying to get a consensus

aasltmike

Active member
I'm in the middle of having an engine rebuild done on my Ty, and I was wondering if there is any harm or any difference in using Mobil 1 fully synthetic or using Royal Purple. Is there any harm in running Royal Purple versus Mobil 1? I know the manufacturer's recommendation calls for Mobil 1. Before someone puts me on blast, I have done the research and I've read the claims of Royal Purple giving small increases in horsepower and the debunking of such claims. I'm just trying to see if anyone has any practical experience in using Royal Purple in their Sy or Ty and what their experience with it was. Thanks.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Trying to get a consensus

As a break-in oil? Use neither. Shell Rotella seems to be the choice for break-in. After that hang onto your hat. Lots of opinions. Both of those are good, Royal Purple is expensive and some will say worth it. Valvoline VR1 might be worth a look.
 

aasltmike

Active member
Re: Trying to get a consensus

Mobil 1 doesn't make a good break-in oil? And what is the consensus on break-in periods, i.e. how many miles, speed limits, and whatnot...I do know that I will have to wait at least some time before I can use the power and acceleration!
 

MikeRenz

not stock
Re: Trying to get a consensus

break-in period is objective also. The norm always seems to be 1,000 miles, never staying at a single rpm for a long time (i.e. don't use cruise control), and don't go above say 4,500rpms on our motors. Speed isn't whats important, but engine rpm.

Heat cycling is probably the more important aspect for our motors. And rechecking bolt torque, gasket sealing, etc.
 

blk00z28

Forced to by choice
Re: Trying to get a consensus

Some also say that depending on the seals, using a synthetic oil for beak in will cause it to leak. Not letting the main seal to swell and cause the "sealing." At least this was the old thought behind it. Everyone I know who's rebuilt motors still go by this idea though.

Take that as you will.
 

aasltmike

Active member
Re: Trying to get a consensus

Some also say that depending on the seals, using a synthetic oil for beak in will cause it to leak. Not letting the main seal to swell and cause the "sealing." At least this was the old thought behind it. Everyone I know who's rebuilt motors still go by this idea though.

Take that as you will.

So, your information there is saying that I should use a normal motor oil for the initial break-in to allow the seals to "swell"? Then, after the initial break-in, switch to the Mobil 1?
 

blk00z28

Forced to by choice
Re: Trying to get a consensus

Correct.

But like I said, this is what I've seen, and be told. Take that as you will.

Might want to ask the engine builder what they recommend as to the break in oil as another idea.
 

bdydrpds10

Yes I drive a Typhoon.
Re: Trying to get a consensus

Yes, do not use synthetic oil to "break in" a motor.

Also, I personally will never use Royal Purple anything and I use to get a great discount on it where I worked.

It was probably just a coincidence but I had nothing but problems when running it in my camaro. Both the motor and trans fluid. I just stick to regular castrol oil and havent had a problem since.:2cents:

I'm sure everyone has there own opinion.
 

(V)erciless

TURBO6
Re: Trying to get a consensus

Yes, do not use synthetic oil to "break in" a motor.

Also, I personally will never use Royal Purple anything and I use to get a great discount on it where I worked.

It was probably just a coincidence but I had nothing but problems when running it in my camaro. Both the motor and trans fluid. I just stick to regular castrol oil and havent had a problem since.:2cents:

I'm sure everyone has there own opinion.

I have run royal purple in my last three vehicals with no problems at all.

Also I believe RP makes a break in oil for motor rebuilds.

But like you said everyone has their own opinion.:tup:
 

aasltmike

Active member
Re: Trying to get a consensus

Yep, so far I'm getting a good consensus on every side of the issue here. Thanks for all the input thus far...I'll be talking with the rebuilder tomorrow and see what they recommend for break-in oil and then make a decision based on all I've heard so far.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Trying to get a consensus

Still hanging onto that hat? :rotf: New, as in the last 20-30 years, seals don't "swell." I think that had to do with the old rope type rear main seal. AFA actuall break-in is concerned two things; bearings and rings. Bearings need plenty of oil (meaning always pre-lube the motor) and rings need short term high cyl loads to seat the rings. The variable load no cruise control thing.

Like we said, opinions will vary...
 

cloneman315

Active member
Re: Trying to get a consensus

straight 30 for break in,Start it up let it run for 5 min or so dump oil,put in new oil for 100 miles dump it again,then 500 miles dump again,at 1000 put in the mobil one,any cheap straight 30 will work for break in.
 
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