Daveman2
Autox Blazer
I decided to make this thread, after I underestimated the bad qualities of worn polyurethane suspension bushings. In reality, I realize, even driving my car like 3/7 days of the week, after 6 years I badly need new sway bushings.
My car had a tendency to not want to 'settle' with going straight, and I now realize this was due to massive ovaling on my 5 or 6 year old bushings (about 15-20k miles on them, and 3 or 4 auto-xs). I was trying to chase down why it didn't want to track straight for years, and never realized these were the problem. Polyuro feels so much better than rubber, and I had never been able to find a replacement for the top bushing in the rear swaybar endlink frame mount, until a few days ago when a S10forum buddy mentioned a kit. So that bushings had 75K on it, but everything else was polyurethane and had been used as mentioned(10-15kmi).
pics:
the reds are the replacements obviously.
Anyways in short, anyways who's having a hard time keeping their sy/ty or late S10 4WD chassis going straight, and is experiencing side-side wobble effects on bumps, should take a peek at their sway bushings and consider this kit.
I got a Prothane Motion Control Kit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTP-7-1139/
I beleive I have a 28mm sway, as the at-axle bushings didn't completely wrap around (had about a 1/2" gap, it's a 23"mm kit), compared to the previous bushings that fit it completely, howev:tup:er they still worked quite well and squeezed into place once bolted down.
You do need some sort of press in order to get the old stock rubber bushings out, and after I got the bushing out, I had to soak the endlinks in gas in order to help get the rest of the old rubber out, it may take a bit of scraping to get everything out and make sure the new bushing sit right. I've heard of people using torches to heat the rubber in order to get it out easier.
I had to expand my swaybar endlink brackets at the frame, it was easy, I just used a bolt and 2 nuts and pressed it out a little. After I did that just a bit, the endlinks fit in snugly and everything feels really tight and in proper alignment in the rear. The polyuro endlinks stick our just a hair farther than the stock rubber ones, so it's pretty damn diffcult to get them in without expanding it, and I think it will bind even if you do manage the get them in. One the pass side I got it into place but decided to expand it more because it was binding.
Also, an added bonus to those who bought coilovers- you can use the endlinks from the torsion bar's crossmember, as replacements for the stock rear sway bar endlinks.
For me this is was good because my old rear sway endlinks were slightly bent-probably from hitting something rigid on the ground.
Once I get a front replacement bushing kit in, it should be handling great again, like back in 2007 when an TT 300WHP FD Rx-7 had a hard time keeping up with me in the twisties:tup: It accelerates, brakes, turns, and takes bumps far better than it used to.
Does Anyone know how effect the unused rear inner swaybar mounts on the axle are? I noticed or our rear axles, there is another swaybar bracket (at least on my model), inside of the one a the stock placement, where the u-bolt/bracket setup might be able to mount, but I don't know if the geometry would work, and I can't think if that would be more or less beneficial to handling
My car had a tendency to not want to 'settle' with going straight, and I now realize this was due to massive ovaling on my 5 or 6 year old bushings (about 15-20k miles on them, and 3 or 4 auto-xs). I was trying to chase down why it didn't want to track straight for years, and never realized these were the problem. Polyuro feels so much better than rubber, and I had never been able to find a replacement for the top bushing in the rear swaybar endlink frame mount, until a few days ago when a S10forum buddy mentioned a kit. So that bushings had 75K on it, but everything else was polyurethane and had been used as mentioned(10-15kmi).
pics:
the reds are the replacements obviously.
Anyways in short, anyways who's having a hard time keeping their sy/ty or late S10 4WD chassis going straight, and is experiencing side-side wobble effects on bumps, should take a peek at their sway bushings and consider this kit.
I got a Prothane Motion Control Kit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTP-7-1139/
I beleive I have a 28mm sway, as the at-axle bushings didn't completely wrap around (had about a 1/2" gap, it's a 23"mm kit), compared to the previous bushings that fit it completely, howev:tup:er they still worked quite well and squeezed into place once bolted down.
You do need some sort of press in order to get the old stock rubber bushings out, and after I got the bushing out, I had to soak the endlinks in gas in order to help get the rest of the old rubber out, it may take a bit of scraping to get everything out and make sure the new bushing sit right. I've heard of people using torches to heat the rubber in order to get it out easier.
I had to expand my swaybar endlink brackets at the frame, it was easy, I just used a bolt and 2 nuts and pressed it out a little. After I did that just a bit, the endlinks fit in snugly and everything feels really tight and in proper alignment in the rear. The polyuro endlinks stick our just a hair farther than the stock rubber ones, so it's pretty damn diffcult to get them in without expanding it, and I think it will bind even if you do manage the get them in. One the pass side I got it into place but decided to expand it more because it was binding.
Also, an added bonus to those who bought coilovers- you can use the endlinks from the torsion bar's crossmember, as replacements for the stock rear sway bar endlinks.
For me this is was good because my old rear sway endlinks were slightly bent-probably from hitting something rigid on the ground.
Once I get a front replacement bushing kit in, it should be handling great again, like back in 2007 when an TT 300WHP FD Rx-7 had a hard time keeping up with me in the twisties:tup: It accelerates, brakes, turns, and takes bumps far better than it used to.
Does Anyone know how effect the unused rear inner swaybar mounts on the axle are? I noticed or our rear axles, there is another swaybar bracket (at least on my model), inside of the one a the stock placement, where the u-bolt/bracket setup might be able to mount, but I don't know if the geometry would work, and I can't think if that would be more or less beneficial to handling