Western Washington help request.

[odium]

Alright Western Washingtonians, I would like to come over this weekend for a good looking over of the Typhoon to find out why she is misbehaving so badly. It's officially beyond my scope, but I want to learn how to tame this beast properly. I know I still need proper vac lines and fittings, the timing is messed up bad (I have no idea what is up with it, and I think this is the major problem), and the intake/throttle body could use a good cleaning. I'm disconnecting the EGR after it's cleaned. I think the valve covers are going to need to come off to see where true top dead center is, unless somebody on the west side knows some kind of trick. A piston stop won't work because there is no way to hand turn the engine with it in the engine bay. I think the harmonic balancer's slipped... She is knocking if I get in to ANY boost now, even 1 psi unless it is retarded so much that it bogs... I want so badly for this thing to run right! I've been babying it since I bought it and will not drive it unless datamaster is open and I can see the spark retard. Let me know if anybody can help me out this weekend and tame this beast. Maybe we can make a group "fix-bens-incredibly-sick-ty" out of this!

Some stores over here have a few feet of misc. vacuum lines, but believe it or not, nobody has any T fittings or elbows, or anything like that. I am going to have to visit a shop over there this weekend and buy this stuff. I can paypal somebody to pick up what I need if the shops aren't open on the weekends. It's had a recent tuneup, so I think the timing is the only thing real crazy with it. The only thing that's not stock are rubber hoses, an ATR Pitbull street, and an ATR cold air intake. That's it.

Anybody willing to lend a helping hand or brain, reply! I'm more than willing to go anywhere from Gig Harbor/Olympia to Seattle to Bellingham. I'm just a kid trying to keep the hot rodding do-it-yourselfer alive that's more than willing to learn.

PS Ill buy the beer.

 

[SeattleSy#1255]

i can lend a hand, but brain i wouldn't rely on mine so much. i still think we need to get the chip out of there. I am thinking of selling my ultimate which you can buy if you want, but you'll need a 3bar MAP sensor with it....also i wouldn't put that on anyway, tell we get this other crap worked out. Zav has the timing stuff, i can't help there so if we can get him then that could help.

 

[odium]

I have all the stuff to do timing, but there's something wrong... I can change the timing and stuff, it just seems like it's advanced at 0 because I get knock with any throttle. If datamaster sees above 14.6 psi, I have a 3-bar, right? It reads 16-17 right now when I make runs.

I mostly need a chip to get this thing tuned with.. I would love to buy an ultimate, but I seriously need this thing to be running tip-top before I do any kind of mods...

I'd still like to come over Friday night and work on what we can Saturday. Do you know of any shops open early Saturday I can get all the vacuum lines from?

Anybody else over here that is willing to help us out on Sat?

 

[SeattleSy#1255]

Roland and Richard lee are the guru's over here but i haven't talk to them much and Roland tends to not like to to much with stock trucks...i don't even know how to get a hold of richard now days. post on NWSTP.com as well.

with the timing are you unplugging the tan wire or not? if not, that could be part of the problem.

you could be getting some false knock from somewhere perhaps?

i got my vacuum line stuff from a local rice shop and made the kit myself. not sure if they are open on sat, but i'd guess they would be, however it was a few years ago when i did that. the "t's" you'll need can be found at any napa, or parts store. you can reuse the one way valves if they are working correctly, check them when they are out.

also i'll be at my grandma's on friday/tomorrow...not sure when i'll be back i can try to work something out if this is for sure.

 

[odium]

The tan wire is definately disconnected; I am getting audible knock, I can hear it outside in the engine bay rattling like a can of marbles (not good). I'm going to post this on NWSTP right now.

The truck may be close to stock right now, but I am trying to get the damned thing tuned so I can start heavily modifying it!

I'll try to get a for sure by some time tonight.

If anybody wants to call, phone number is 3602203422.

-Ben

 

[odium]

Alright Zav, the plug wires didn't make any difference at all. They had the same resistances as the black beauties and worked just the same. Also, when I changed to the CR42TS, it would still idle like a purring kitten. I advanced the timing slightly to where it would get to zero when reved and it was the same/worse. I got audible knock at ~ 2 psi. I retarded it more and the spark retard began to go away, but progressively increased until there was slightly audible knock around 6 psi. When I got it drivable, it was bogging down noticeably. Cap and rotor are definately on right. I am throwing no codes and datamaster looks good in all aspects other than spark retard and knock counts. IAC position is around 30.

Compression was good when I last checked it.

**** Looking back on my last few datamaster runs, the boost looks like it spikes up to almost 24 psi at times... How do I make it stop that!? You can see it on http://www.wsu.edu/~odiwik/run1.uni on the a couple of the big boost spikes! I was recording these things with display units in stock MAP, and when switched to 3-bar, I can see the boost this large... Wtf..

 

[SeattleSy#1255]

Alright Zav, the plug wires didn't make any difference at all. They had the same resistances as the black beauties and worked just the same. Also, when I changed to the CR42TS, it would still idle like a purring kitten. I advanced the timing slightly to where it would get to zero when reved and it was the same/worse. I got audible knock at ~ 2 psi. I retarded it more and the spark retard began to go away, but progressively increased until there was slightly audible knock around 6 psi. When I got it drivable, it was bogging down noticeably. Cap and rotor are definately on right. I am throwing no codes and datamaster looks good in all aspects other than spark retard and knock counts. IAC position is around 30.

Compression was good when I last checked it.

**** Looking back on my last few datamaster runs, the boost looks like it spikes up to almost 24 psi at times... How do I make it stop that!? You can see it on http://www.wsu.edu/~odiwik/run1.uni on the a couple of the big boost spikes! I was recording these things with display units in stock MAP, and when switched to 3-bar, I can see the boost this large... Wtf..

Ben, you don't have a 3bar in your truck so that 24psi isn't the correct reading. You have the 2 bar ATR chip...i had you use 3 bar on my truck because I use the ultimate chip which is a 3 bar chip allowing for more boost...hence, t1-18 we did.

BWT...this is Jeff, not zav LOL...

I am wondering if you have something major wrong with the truck OR we are missing something major.

If i was you, i'd start from the beginning...

1) remove ATR chip put in stock chip (you can use mine if you want)

see what that does

2) run TEC let sit for a few hours, blow the crap out

see what that does

3) change oil, plugs again using NGK ur5's or CRT's try both, wires, cap/rotor

see what that does

4) remove IC, TB, and Upper Intake clean them out you'll find lots O' black junk espically if you have those PCV's running into the stock intake crossover

see what that does

5) do those vacuum hoses when you get them


Those are basics and stuff I can help with...like i said, my brain isn't good for much, but I can help a bit with basic stuff.

do you have a stock fuel pump?
do you have a AFPR/ what is your FP?
got to get that timing down....i can't help much there.

call me if you want.

i think you got my number

 

[odium]

Zav called me and told me to do those things I replied about. I know you're Jeff!

Alright, I have the 2bar in my truck (orange plugs) but I don't know why datamaster can read 18 psi and above at times... Odd.

I put up a WTB on the forums looking for a stock chip to buy. If I can borrow a chip for a week or so, that would rule.

I am going to the dealer tomorrow to buy the TEC and some injector cleaner to see what it does. I need to clean it out anyway. While I am doing that, I will be cleaning out the IC and throttle body. What should I use to clean all that out? Anything special or just soap and water?

What can I do to prevent the junk from building up again? I will disable and plug the EGR, but what about the PCV valves? Is there a way to get rid of them safely, or am I stuck with using them?

The NGK ur5s and CRTs both work identically as of tonight. Stock GMC wires work the same as the black beauties. I changed the cap/rotor and the timing was still messed up. I'm still trying to battle that gremlin. The valve covers are coming off this weekend and I am going to try to find true top dead center that way to put whether my balancer slipped or not to rest.

The previous owner said there was probably a Walbro in the tank, but I honestly don't know and can't think of a way to tell other than dropping the tank. I have an AFPR and it reads about 42 psi at idle. When boost comes in to play, it goes around 60 psi. That seems like about 1 psi per pound of boost.

I might make a trip to spokane for the vacuum lines. Does anybody know how many Ts and how many feet of what size hose I'll need to replace all lines?

Thanks for your help!@!! I WILL eventually get this beast running right.

 

[kwick6]

Look at this screenshot. On the left hand side you can see MAP , right under RPM. Is yours set to 3 bar or 2 bar?

If its set to 3 bar, you need to go into setup and "display units" and change it back to 2 bar.

 

[odium]

I've been recording my data using the OEM map sensor calibration (2-bar), but the playback has been showing boost reaching 16.4 psi pretty consistently. How is it recording over the 2 bar setting? Is datamaster just giving crazy readings as far as boost is concerned? I know I'm getting near that amount of boost, maybe more by checking out my stock boost gauge running the ATR Pitbull.

The 25 psi spikes i was worrying about were when I opened the files up with it set to 3-bar, so it must change some readings in the program and not be right...

 

[Guest]

I wouldn't mind lending a hand, but there's no way I can participate until sunday or so...... too many projects I have to finish up on.

If you don't resolve things saturday, give a call. 425 641 7648 and we'll see if we can arrange something.

 

[odium]

Alright, I am going to try and do everything I can possibly think of besides pulling the motor Saturday and we'll see what happens. Thanks for offering to lend a helping hand, I am going to really really appreciate it if it comes to that..

I love the Sy/Ty cult...

 

[SeattleSy#1255]

i'd take Roland up on the offer...perhaps next weekend if you can and he can...i'd like to come by so i can be in the way as that is what i'm good for, but Roland is nice guy...

i'm good as kissing butt! :rotf:

 

[odium]

I redid my vacuum lines, changed my fuel filter again, cleaned my air filter again, disabled the EGR, and I now have no spark retard at WOT whatsoever!!!!!! It feels good to have a little boost again.. Now for the next problem:

I max out at 13.5 psi now, but it's at the 13.5 very very consistently. It's practically a straight line in datamaster. I have an ATR Pitbull and have gotten upwards of 17 psi before all the chaos started.

What would cause a low boost situation like this? My wastegate rod is adjusted how kwick6 posts in all his replies (I searched it). I just noticed that my WGDC is stuck at 74.9% for some reason... What would cause it to stop early?

When I did the vacuum lines around the turbo area, I saw that there was a knob that a vacuum line might connect to right below the one that goes between the solenoid and wastegate, but there was nothing connected to it.

I WILL get this thing running right...

 

[Guest]

Sounds as though progress is being made.... congrats.

The "nipple" you mentioned above sounds like the bleedoff on the boost control solenoid...... it is suppose to vent to atmosphere, so leave it unplugged. If you re-do the vacuum lines, make sure you hose the same fitting at the boost solenoid, and not the vent :roll:

I'm pleased to hear things are progressing for ya,

 

[odium]

Haha, it's the same fitting as what was used before. The vent has a small metal clamp around it, almost like the PO wanted to make sure he didn't do exactly what you just mentioned.

Know why it would only give 13.5 psi instead of the 17 now? The WGDC is at 75%, what would cause that?

 

[odium]

I have a few datamaster runs showcasing the boost limit. As you can see, I have it to where there is 0 spark retard and 0 knock. Too bad the boost is limited!

Just to let you know: I can boost launch at about the same limit, but no boost launches are in the datamaster files below.

Notice that the waste gate duty cycle is at 74.9 and doesn't change on boostlimit5. Is that where my problem is?

Would a crapped out MAP sensor do this? What are the symptoms of a bad map sensor or one that isn't getting the correct amount of vacuum?

If my timing is too retarded (my balancer is slipped, so it is damned hard finding true 0), would that cause the boost to not crawl up to the full 16-17 it should be getting (ATR Pitbull)? I tried advancing it a little bit more, and the same boost limit was there. boostlimit5 is where it was advanced 1-2 extra degrees.....

http://www.wsu.edu/~odiwik/boostlimit.uni
http://www.wsu.edu/~odiwik/boostlimit2.uni
http://www.wsu.edu/~odiwik/boostlimit3.uni
http://www.wsu.edu/~odiwik/boostlimit4.uni
http://www.wsu.edu/~odiwik/boostlimit5.uni

Roland, I might take you up on your offer for Saturday next weekend. We'll see if I can fix the boost limit by wednesday or not. Even if I do get it fixed, it would be nice to meet you and check out your sy. I'll let you know for sure by wednesday, if that's alright with you.

Xav, your datamaster file is in the mail.

 

[SeattleSy#1255]

the 2bar map sensor can not possibily read above14.7psi the way I understand it, thus your fueling would not be sufficient for that 16-17psi you are reading on datamaster. If fact, if datamaster is reading this, i don't see how its accurate as it is getting the info from the ECM, witha gain only the ability to read 14.7psi using that ATR chip and the 2 bar MAP sensor.

Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge and if so what does it say on these supposed 16-17psi boost creeps?

 

[odium]

I do have an aftermarket boost gauge and it used to read near 17 psi at WOT. It stops at around 13-14 psi now for some reason.

You're right that I wouldn't get the right fueling, but it used to go that high (ATR Pitbull), so something isn't working right...

 

[Guest]

What are the current problems?

If it's just lack of boost, I'd suggest shortening the wastegate rod..... and forget for the moment what your WD duty cycle per Datamaster says. If boost comes, up..... all is well.

If a shorter rod makes no difference, then your problem is elsewhere.
Let me know what's up.