Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

[Ty1642]

Here is a walkthrough of my installation of the SyTy Alky Control kit. I pretty much followed the directions in the kit, but I’ll point out where I did a few things differently. One of the things I try to avoid is making permanent mods to the truck – most of the things I did differently were because of that.

The Alky Control kit is nice –Julio Don gives you everything you need and it all seems to be put together well. Here’s a photo of the kit. There are one or two extra parts in here that Julio made for me also – if you don’t see any of these things in your kit, that’s probably why.

1. HARDWARE INSTALLATION

The first thing I did was to install the new smaller overflow tank and reroute the lines from the radiator and the CAC. The instructions have this at the end, but by doing it first I could take my time with the other work and still drive the truck.

I still have the stock crossover pipe, but removed the stock airbox. I attached the overflow tank to the bracket that the airbox was attached to. This photo shows the bracket:

You can see two bolts at the top holding the bracket on. If you remove those, the bracket lifts out. Once you have it out, there is a plastic duct attached to it that routed air into the filter. The duct pops right out. I then zip-tied the bottle to the bracket.

There are two hoses included with the kit – one for the CAC vent and one for the radiator. I attached the radiator hose to the bottom fitting on the new overflow tank, and the CAC hose to the top fitting. (Julio’s kit includes a clear hose for the CAC – I had an extra black hose and used that instead.)

Once the hoses were attached, the bracket bolts right back in and the lines attach at the other ends. I tucked the lines on top of the radiator and in front of the crossover tube. They aren’t fastened down but they don’t seem to move around.

After driving the truck around for a week or so, I noticed that the bottle seemed to be slipping down from the weight of the coolant. I added a third zip-tie and tightened the other two, and it seems to have been fine since:

The next step was installing the alky nozzle in the CAC. I couldn’t come up with a better way to do this, so I bought a spare CAC to keep my original unmodded. To remove your CAC, first you need to drain the coolant using the valve on the lower heat exchanger. Remove the hose from the turbo, the upper and lower coolant lines, the overflow line, and loosen the hose clamps on the 3” hose connecting the CAC to the throttle body. There are 3 bolts under the CAC holding it to the mounting brackets – remove those and lift the CAC out. Watch for coolant still in the CAC.

The nozzle goes in the bottom of the CAC outlet, pointing up. Drill a 3/8 inch hole – I had to open it up a bit before the nozzle would fit in. When the hose between the CAC and throttle body goes on later, the hose and hose clamp will need to be cut away a bit to fit around the nozzle, so the closer the hole for the nozzle is to the CAC body, the better. (But make sure the nozzle will still seal tight against the CAC.)

The Alky Control kit includes rubber & steel washers to go on both the inside and outside of the CAC. Because the aluminum is so thick, only one set of washers will fit. I put them on the inside and put a little red loctite on the nozzle threads before installing it on the CAC. Be careful – there is a small wire mesh filter inside the nozzle tip – don’t get any loctite on it.

Put a little bit of Teflon tape on the male-male fitting and thread it into the nozzle. The fitting should point towards the rear of the truck when the CAC is installed.

While I was at it, I put aluminized heat wrap on the outside of the CAC, and bellmouthed the inlet from the turbo.

The pump goes in next. After removing the battery and unbolting the 3 bolts holding the tray, I removed the 2 screws holding the vacuum ball to the bottom of the tray. The next photo shows the area under the battery tray – the pump is going to sit on the flat shelf in front of the inner fender. The two large hoses are 3/4” heater hoses where I previously rerouted the CAC lines through the inner fender.

The pump is attached to a small metal plate with four rubber feet. The pump motor faces towards the front of the truck, with the inlet side of the pump facing the motor, and the outlet side facing the fender. The kit instructions tell you to drill holes in the flat panel in front of the inner fender, and bolt the pump to the panel. Since I didn’t want to drill any holes in the truck I installed the pump slightly differently. I found this metal plate at Home Depot in the lumber section (with the various metal brackets used to build wood decks):

The plate fits perfectly in the area where the pump is to go. At the back of the metal shelf that the pump is to install on, there are 3 holes where the inner fender is bolted to the shelf. I drilled four holes in my Home Depot plate to attach the pump, and two more holes to line up with the outer two fender attachment holes. I attached the pump to the Home Depot plate using the bolts in the Alky kit. The pump has a ground wire with a ring terminal on it – one of the bolts was run through the ring terminal so the pump was grounded to the metal plate. There are brass fittings that attach to the inlet and outlet side of the pump – I installed those now. The directions tell you to turn them hand tight, and then one more turn. The pump head is plastic, so overtightening the fittings can crack the pump. Here is the pump on the mounting plate, ready to go in the truck:

I ran 2 bolts up through the outer fender mounting holes, with big flat washers to keep them in place. I put a couple of nuts on top of the bolts, then set the mounting plate on those, and used two more nuts to tighten it down. The nuts under the plate space it up slightly from the shelf – they are needed because the heads of the four pump mounting bolts are under the plate and the shelf that the plate attaches to isn’t completely flat.

On my truck the inner fender doesn’t line up with these mounting holes. (I ‘adjusted’ the fender with a rubber mallet when I installed my PTE turbo because the wastegate actuator didn’t clear.) If your fender is straight, you should still be able to attach the pump the same way I did, but you will need to unbolt it in the future if you want to remove the inner fender.

Here is the pump bolted into the truck. It is a pretty tight fit – the pump should be installed far enough towards the front of the truck that the outlet hose will have a fairly straight shot into the inner fender.

Next the CAC went on. The 3” hose from the CAC to the throttle body needs to be notched to fit around the spray nozzle on the bottom of the CAC. Don’t cut too much away, so there aren’t vacuum / boost leaks when everything is put back together. The hose clamp also needs to be ground down to fit around the nozzle.

Once the hose and clamp are attached to the CAC, attach the longer braided steel fuel line to the nozzle, and then install the CAC back in the truck:

Attach the fuel filter from the Alky Control kit to the fuel line from the CAC. The arrow on the filter points in the direction of fuel flow. The fuel line routes around the back of the CAC, in front of the heater box, and into the inner fender. I bought some extra wire loom and covered the fuel line with it, to keep the installation stealthy:

Attach the shorter braided fuel line to the outlet side of the Alky pump, and run it into the inner fender. When tightening the fuel line to the pump, use two wrenches so that the brass fitting on the pump doesn’t get overtightened. Attach the other end of the short hose to the inlet side of the fuel filter:

 

[Ty1642]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

Next the alky tank goes in. If the low-level float is not installed, it gets put in first. I found it easiest to fit the rubber gasket into the tank first, and then carefully push the float through the gasket until it was seated. The float should be positioned with the electrical connector pointing down. If the tank is full, the float should point straight up, and if the tank is empty, the float will point towards the back of the tank. The last fuel line is rubber with a brass fitting on one end, and is cut on the other end. Put a hose clamp over the cut end, along with the included brass collar, and then carefully push the hose onto the fuel tank. Slide the hose clamp over the collar and tighten it down. Bolt the tank in place where the overflow tank was, and attach the other end of the hose to the inlet side of the Alky pump, again using two wrenches.

Now the battery tray can go back in. I wanted to keep the vacuum ball, but it would not fit between the pump and the battery tray. I ended up plugging the end of the vacuum hose with a golf tee, and using a zip-tie to hold it in place. I may try to find a smaller vacuum ball at some point.

Once the battery tray and battery are back in, the underhood install is just about invisible with the wire loom I put over the fuel lines. (The ‘Alky Control’ label is going to come off of the alky tank cap shortly.)

2. UNDER HOOD WIRING

To make this as easy as possible, I’ll show each piece of wiring harness, and then explain where it goes. The first harness is the wiring for the pump:

The connector attaches to the mating connector coming off of the pump. Once it is connected, slide the long length of wire loom over the cable. Don’t route it through the fender yet – the wire from the low level sensor will run through the loom also.

The next harness to install is the wiring for the low-level sensor in the alky tank:

The connector plugs into the float sensor on the tank. The ring terminal on the black wire connects to ground. I connected it to one of the screws holding the tank to the fender. The tan wire gets run through the wire loom with the pump harness. Once you’ve fed it in, the loom can get routed through the fender towards the firewall. Here is a photo of the installed low-level harness – you can just see the tan wire routed into the loom with the pump harness:

The next harness is the power source for the pump. The pump gets its power from the +12V source on the firewall. It will get routed through a relay under the dash that switches the power to the pump off when the ignition is off. Here is the harness – it includes a fuse in the attached connector:

The +12V source is in the middle of the firewall – I attached the fuse holder on the harness to one of the mounting screws, and attached the ring terminal on the black wire to the +12V source. The red wire is going to get routed under the dash with the pump harness.

Route the wire loom with the pump harness and low-level sensor wire out of the fender, in front of the heater box, and behind the engine.

There are two possible ways to use the low-level sensor. The kit includes an LED that can be installed on the dash that will turn on when the tank is low. The directions also suggest using the relay that powers the ‘Low Turbo Coolant’ light on the dash. There is a sensor in the lower intercooler under the bumper that was supposed to turn this light on when the coolant in the CAC is low. However, the factory wiring for this sensor isn’t correct, so the light doesn’t work.

I wired the alky kit low-level sensor to this relay for two reasons. The first is that I could use the dash light that is already there, instead of putting another LED in. The second, and more important to me, is that the relay also powers the stock boost controller. If the alky low-level sensor comes on, the boost controller will get turned off and the truck won’t be able to make more than base boost. This is a good safeguard to avoid going lean and damaging the engine. The low-level sensor works by connecting the tan wire to ground when the tank is low. If you wire the sensor to the relay and want to drive with the tank empty, you can just unplug the harness from the tank sensor and it won’t turn off the stock boost controller.

There are two relays in the center of the firewall, next to the +12V source. The ‘Low Turbo Coolant’ relay is the one on the passenger side (you can see it in the previous photo). The relay is mounted on a clip – just push it up gently and it will come off of the firewall. Turn it over and you can see a white retainer underneath:

Use a screwdriver to release the retainer and slide it out the side of the relay. Now you can pull the relay and its wiring connector apart.

The green wire on the connector is the wire from the lower intercooler. The tan wire from the alky tank should connect to the same terminal. To avoid cutting up the factory harness, I fed the tan wire into the top of the connector. The relay will still fit over the connector and will hold the wire in place. Here is the connector, showing the tan wire fitted into the correct terminal (on the right):

Carefully push the relay back onto the connector, put the white retainer in, and slide the relay back onto the firewall. Here is the finished assembly:

At this point I fed the red wire from the +12V harness into the wire loom, and put a zip-tie on the loom to keep it and the tan wire from pulling out of the loom.

The next harness is connected to the MAP sensor, so the alky pump can turn on when it senses boost pressure. The MAP sensor has three wires connected to it. The Alky Control kit comes with a green wire that is to be spliced into the green wire from the sensor. I didn’t want to cut up the stock truck wiring, so Julio Don was nice enough to make me a plug-and-play harness. It connects between the MAP sensor and the truck wiring, and brings off a feed for the alky pump. This photo shows the green wire that comes with the Alky Control kit (bottom) and the custom harness Julio made (top).

I disconnected the truck wiring from the MAP sensor and plugged the custom harness in between. The Alky Control kit includes a short length of wire loom – slide that over the green wire up against the MAP sensor, and then feed the rest of the green wire into the long wire loom with all the other wiring.

The main loom should now include the pump harness, the red wire from the +12V source, the green wire from the map sensor, and the tan wire if you didn’t wire it to the relay instead.

Now the loom needs to be fed inside the driver’s compartment. There is a hole in the firewall on the driver’s side, next to the brake booster. Pull out the rubber plug on that hole. Before feeding the loom through, remove the two interior plastic trim panels under the steering wheel and below the dash. Feed the loom into the hole, and fish it through from under the dash. (The hole is just above the steering wheel column.) Here is a photo from the engine compartment side:

Here is a photo from under the dash:

 

[Ty1642]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

3. WIRING INSIDE CAB

The first thing you need to do with the wiring in the cab is decide where you want to mount the different boxes. Some of the harnesses are relatively short, so you need to test fit that everything will connect when installed. I wanted to put the remote controller (with the rotary switch and test button) in the glove compartment, so that decided where the other pieces went.

The kit includes an LED to tell when the pump is working. It is the LED with orange and brown wires. I have a boost gauge on the steering column, so I attached the turn-on LED next to the gauge, and routed the wire under the dash. If you are using the low-level LED in the kit, that needs to be installed somewhere on the dash also. The low-level LED is the one with red and tan wires. Here is my turn-on LED:

The kit includes a relay that gets mounted under the dash:

The black wire on the relay with the ring terminal needs to be attached to a solid ground. There is a bracket that holds the gas pedal to the firewall, with two bolts that attach the bracket to the firewall. I attached the ring terminal to one of those bolts. On the left side of the bracket there is a hole that is the perfect size for mounting the relay with a nut and bolt. The red wire from the +12V source on the firewall now needs to be connected to the relay. There is an extra terminal taped to the relay – cut the red wire to length and crimp on the terminal. There are two empty wiring slots on the relay connector – push the terminal into the outer slot, not the one in the middle.

Here is the installed relay. You can see how it is attached to the gas pedal bracket. You can also see the ground wire attached to the bolt, and the +12V wire plugged into the relay:

There is a pair of empty slots on the fuse panel labeled IGN. The red wire from the relay with the spade terminal gets plugged into one of those. When the ignition is turned on, the IGN wire closes the relay, sending power from the +12V source to the pump controller. Earlier versions of the alky kit powered the pump directly from the IGN source, but the pump caused interference with other electronics. The relay fixes that problem.

Here is the red wire from the relay plugged into the IGN slot on the fuse panel:

The last connection from the relay is the red & black wires with the weather pack connector. That connector will get attached to the matching connector on the main controller box – you can leave it for later.

The black harness from the pump is next. It gets attached to the red / black / white wires on the main controller:

The kit includes specific directions on how to make this connection. Basically you strip a couple of inches of the black insulation on the pump harness off, then strip about ¼” of insulation from each of the wires in the harness. The kit includes 3 terminals – crimp one onto each wire on the pump harness. (If you are using the low-level LED from the kit, the red wire from that LED can also be crimped into the terminal for the red pump wire. The tan wire from the LED gets attached to a ground.) Slide the large black heat shrink over the whole pump harness, then the red / black / white heat shrink over each of the matching wires. (The white heat shrink goes over the bare silver wire in the pump harness.) Connect the red wire from the pump harness to the red wire from the master controller, then silver to white and black to black. Slide each colored piece of heat shrink over its connection, and shrink it on. Slide the black heat shrink up against the connectors, to cover where you removed the black insulation earlier, and shrink it on. Here is the assembled connection:

Next is the connector for the green MAP wire and the turn-on LED:

The green wire from the MAP sensor gets attached to the green wire on this connector. The orange and brown wires from the turn-on LED get connected to the matching wires on the connector. I soldered each wire together and put heat shrink over the connections. The gray and purple wires on the connector aren’t needed. I put a piece of heat shrink over the ends to insulate them, and coiled them up. Here is the wired up connector:

Next is the remote controller. This is used to turn the alky system on/off, set the pump gain, and test it. I installed mine in the glove box next to my Ultimate controller, with the wiring running through the dash:

The last piece to install is the main controller. There are a couple of dials in the main controller for setting pump levels, so it should be installed somewhere accessible. When the dash trim piece that covers the bottom of the passenger dash is removed, there is a flat panel in front of the cup holders. I used Velcro to attach the controller there. If it is installed on the right side of that panel, it is easy to reach the adjustment dials. Once the kit is properly set up, those dials don’t need to be adjusted anymore, and the dash trim panel will hide the controller and wiring. Here is the controller installed:

Now connect the cables for the remote controller, the relay, and the turn-on LED / green MAP wire to the master controller, and tuck all the wiring under the dash:

4. INITIAL CHECKOUT

If the alky tank is empty, and the low-level sensor is wired to the firewall relay, turning the ignition on should make the low-coolant light on the dash turn on. Filling the tank should make the light go off. This will check that the relay and the light both still work. If you used the low-level LED in the kit, pushing the test button on the remote controller with an empty tank should turn the LED on.

Set the dial on the remote controller straight up (about ‘4'). With the engine running and the alky tank filled, push the test button. The turn-on LED should turn from red to green as pressure builds in the pump. The truck should stumble a little because of the extra fuel. If the green LED doesn’t come on, either the pump isn’t spraying or the pressure switch on the pump is set higher than the test pressure.

Test drive the truck. With the main controller dial settings as the kit shipped, the turn on LED should turn green as the truck builds somewhere around 4 PSI of boost. This is as far as I’ve gotten, so I won’t get into tuning instructions.


5. THOUGHTS ON TUNING

I currently have a PTE-44 turbo and an Ultimate chip. Dig did a custom tune for my truck, so the stock boost controller works with the PTE turbo. I don’t have a wideband O2 sensor yet. I am going to try initial tuning without one, but will probably buy one down the road. I’ve read a bit on Code59.org, and am leaning towards sticking with the Ultimate for a couple of reasons:

PROs
- I already have a pretty solid tune, so hopefully adjusting for Alky will only involve fairly easy adjustments to the F77 table, with maybe tweaks to the F31M table and a few other areas. Using Code59 will mean starting with a much rougher tune.
- I like the security feature on the Ultimate.
- The stock boost controller lets the chip control boost if there are problems (I think – I’m not sure if / how the factory chip pulls boost if there is knock or a lean condition). I’ve only seen one starter bin on Code59 that works with a stock boost controller and PTE turbo combo.
- Less new hardware to buy / install / debug.

CONs
- It will be more difficult to tune (burning new EPROMS for each tune instead of the realtime tuning with Code59). Since (I hope) my tuning will be relatively simple, this shouldn’t be too big of a problem.
- Any new features in Code 59? Other than changes to make tuning easier, does Code59 have features that actually improve how the truck runs, or provide new functions? So far, I haven’t found anything on Code59.org that spells that out.

I am also going to try tuning to run on a 50/50 mix of methanol & water. The Alky Control kit does everything it can to safely run pure methanol (pump design, braided lines, etc.) but I don’t really like the idea of having a gallon of straight methanol under the hood if I’m in an accident. A 50/50 mix isn’t flammable. Also, the WWII American and German governments both decided that a 50/50 water/methanol mix gave them the most detonation protection in their aircraft engines. They were already running 100+ octane avgas, so they weren’t mixing water in to save money or reduce risk of fire.

The articles I’ve read also say that although water isn’t a fuel, it raises the octane of the existing fuel. Octane is just fuel’s resistance to knock, and the vaporization of the water makes the fuel more resistant. My custom tune from Dig already runs on the T3-24 Ultimate setting with race gas, so I think a 50/50 mix should still give me enough additional fuel to leave margin in the injector duty cycle. I’ll see how it goes and switch to pure methanol if needed. I’ll listen to any arguments otherwise too.

Good luck with your install. The Alky Control kit is really well put together, and I recommend it.

 

[WyoSyclone]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

Wow, nice write-up Ty1642! I'll be doing mine in a month or so and this will really help me get prepared... :tup: Thanks for taking the time to take the pics and do the writing!

 

[typhoon92]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

Excellent write-up!

 

[turbodig]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

5. THOUGHTS ON TUNING

I currently have a PTE-44 turbo and an Ultimate chip. Dig did a custom tune for my truck, so the stock boost controller works with the PTE turbo. I don’t have a wideband O2 sensor yet. I am going to try initial tuning without one, but will probably buy one down the road. I’ve read a bit on Code59.org, and am leaning towards sticking with the Ultimate for a couple of reasons:

PROs
- I already have a pretty solid tune, so hopefully adjusting for Alky will only involve fairly easy adjustments to the F77 table, with maybe tweaks to the F31M table and a few other areas. Using Code59 will mean starting with a much rougher tune.
- I like the security feature on the Ultimate.
- The stock boost controller lets the chip control boost if there are problems (I think – I’m not sure if / how the factory chip pulls boost if there is knock or a lean condition). I’ve only seen one starter bin on Code59 that works with a stock boost controller and PTE turbo combo.
- Less new hardware to buy / install / debug.

CONs
- It will be more difficult to tune (burning new EPROMS for each tune instead of the realtime tuning with Code59). Since (I hope) my tuning will be relatively simple, this shouldn’t be too big of a problem.
- Any new features in Code 59? Other than changes to make tuning easier, does Code59 have features that actually improve how the truck runs, or provide new functions? So far, I haven’t found anything on Code59.org that spells that out.
.

There's nothing wrong with tweaking your existing ultimate- that should work just fine for you. In fact, you can have the t1 settings stay "normal" for no alcohol, and change the t2-t3 settings so they are alcohol aware.

You won't find the same tools/support for the older $58 stuff as you do with 59. Tooky's site has got good information for ya.

Code59 probably won't work in your ultimate directly. (Unless I 'converted' your Ultimate board, but I don't remeber exactly) As far as the boost, though, you can copy the boost settings from your $58 into a code59 bin. No problem there.

You've got a handle on the pros/cons. The advantages to code59 are the tools, and the bin library, and the support. A lot of folks find that once you get deeper into tuning your own, having the switch-ability doesn't matter as much.


Generally, though, if you're happy with what you have, stick with that and make small changes from there.
If you get yourself a burner and a few extra flash chips, you can make up 2-3 iterations of chips, and bring
them along while testing. Also, you can program your different chip attempts into the different positions of the ultimate, which saves on burning of chips.

Pull fuel from F77, from the turn-on point of the alky and up. Small steps, like 2-3% at a time.

Great write-up, BTW. Only thing I'd question was the wire you jammed into the relay connector.... that will bite you later. I'd cut and splice(solder) the wire to make sure you don't have loose contacts. You don't want electrical gremlins in an alky system.

Later,

 

[Ty1642]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

Thanks for the tuning tips, Dig. My Ultimate is still set up for the stock code - I didn't even know it could be modded to run Code59. The relay wiring looks half-baked, but the terminal seems to pinch the wire well when the relay is pushed in. My intercooler pump has been hot-wired for several years the same way with no problem. I do recommend that the wire be properly spliced/soldered in for anyone not as fussy as me about being able to go back to stock.

I think I'm also going to see if Julio can suggest a way to wire the alky pump low-pressure signal into the boost controller relay too. I'd like the truck to automatically drop to base boost if the pump senses low pressure in the line. That should be safer than relying on watching the red/green LED, and would be in addition to the wiring for the low-level sensor.

 

[syty9933]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

interesting write-up, and what gauges are those they look SWEET

 

[skwayb]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

Wow the kit has come a long ways since I installed it when it first came out. No connectors at all except for where the low level led connected to the Tank. Other than that, everything else was just wires you had to run and splice yourself. Looks nice now and a little cleaner.

 

[nello]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

Nice read, thx for doing it. I've been wanting to do alky for a while, this was inspiring.

 

[Quickstop [UK]]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

vault?

 

[gary sy]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

great job i havant read the whole thing yet but was the pt# for the system were you got it and the total cost ? thaks

 

[Ty1642]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

great job i havant read the whole thing yet but was the pt# for the system were you got it and the total cost ? thaks

www.alkycontrol.com

 

[alwayscode390]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

I have this kit on my TTA ... nice stuff , very easy to use.

Thanks for the in-depth picture filled write up ---

 

[Deception]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

Does this make a big difference?

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

Wow the kit has come a long ways since I installed it when it first came out. No connectors at all except for where the low level led connected to the Tank. Other than that, everything else was just wires you had to run and splice yourself. Looks nice now and a little cleaner.

I was thinking the same thing when looking at the pictures.

 

[turbodig]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

I think I'm also going to see if Julio can suggest a way to wire the alky pump low-pressure signal into the boost controller relay too. I'd like the truck to automatically drop to base boost if the pump senses low pressure in the line. That should be safer than relying on watching the red/green LED, and would be in addition to the wiring for the low-level sensor.

The coolant level signal never worked anyway... just pull the terminal out of the relay connector, and tape over it/hide it. Then put your own wire/terminal in the socket.

If he could detect overpressure in the line as well (ie, a plugged nozzle), this would be a really cool setup.

How about this for a slick setup - get one of the Moates 2-timer adapters, and do 2 chips for it - one for alky working, the other for alky not working. Run the Alky pressure line to the switcher wire on the Moates adapter, and when it runs out of alcohol or fails, it'll automatically go back to the failsafe chip. No boom in the event of alky failure.

 

[syty9933]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

what autometer gauge was that it matched the dash perfectly

 

[Ty1642]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

what autometer gauge was that it matched the dash perfectly

I'm not sure - the previous owner bought it. The needle is actually a lot redder than it looks in that photo. I looked through the AutoMeter gauges on Summit's website, but didn't see one exactly like this.

 

[It's just a six]

Re: Walkthrough of Alky Control Kit Install

Any further updates?
Thanks.