DaveP
Active member
I frequently see peeps refer to this test, or suggest that it be tried. I originally wrote it 3-4 years ago, but now can't find it either, although I think it still exists. Here it is again. Now it's in the title, so it should show up in searches easier.
This test can be run with the T-case installed in the truck, or loose on the ground. What is being checked is the torque required to make the V-Clutch slip. I have checked lots of properly-functioning T-cases over the years. While this test is not scientific, or even to a manufacturer's specification, it will identify whether a V-clutch is "Locked", or "Open".
Here are the conditions for the test:
The "DaveP Spec" is:
Here are a couple of pics of how I set up a case on the floor of my shop. Note that I turn the nut in the CW direction, so as not to loosen the nut.
Remember: There should be resistance between the front and rear outputs. If it is very loose, or breaks away quickly after torque is applied, the V-Clutch has failed Open. If you can't budge the front output with the rear locked, be sure trans is in Neutral, and if it still won't budge, the V-Clutch has failed Locked.
The failure mode that results in broken front axles, split boots, exploded propshafts, busted front diffs, and low-speed "parking lot jumps" is a LOCKED V-clutch.
Hope this helps someone.
This test can be run with the T-case installed in the truck, or loose on the ground. What is being checked is the torque required to make the V-Clutch slip. I have checked lots of properly-functioning T-cases over the years. While this test is not scientific, or even to a manufacturer's specification, it will identify whether a V-clutch is "Locked", or "Open".
Here are the conditions for the test:
- Input shaft free to turn. If installed, transmission in Neutral.
- Rear output shaft Locked. If installed, put a bar through the u-joint, and lodge it against the floor or frame.
- Front output shaft is where you will apply the torque for the test. Use a socket on a torque wrench on the front output flange nut. If installed you can guestimate applying 40 foot lbs to a bar to turn the front shaft. One front wheel must be free to turn. Work safely under the car.
The "DaveP Spec" is:
- 12-15 Seconds
- to turn the front output 90º,
- at 40 ft lbs torque applied.
Here are a couple of pics of how I set up a case on the floor of my shop. Note that I turn the nut in the CW direction, so as not to loosen the nut.
Remember: There should be resistance between the front and rear outputs. If it is very loose, or breaks away quickly after torque is applied, the V-Clutch has failed Open. If you can't budge the front output with the rear locked, be sure trans is in Neutral, and if it still won't budge, the V-Clutch has failed Locked.
The failure mode that results in broken front axles, split boots, exploded propshafts, busted front diffs, and low-speed "parking lot jumps" is a LOCKED V-clutch.
Hope this helps someone.