Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

tydye

Banned
Hi guys i developed the famous "purple wire syndrome" click click click and no start when hot. but i think i have both a starter and perhaps purple wire issue, so im just gonna replace the starter since i was gonna take the wires off the back of the solenoid on starter notice the cap on the solenoid was kinda moving rotating back and forth i imagine that isnt good and its bad so im replacing the starter, so my questions is for running the purple wire. from what i searched and found i can run a nice 12gauge silicone wire from the starter solenoid up where the purple wire goes by the brake booster. but is there more then 1 purple wire in the harness by the brake booster? someone mentioned its the largest purple, but i only see one and its no bigger. and i read alot of people just splice into the wire but which way am i going if i cut the purple wire which direction to i want to work off? is this a stupid question? lol i dont have a volt meter handy.

some of the search results had links to sites that were dead i did see couple photos but maybe someone knows of better pics.

so i just wanna run the wire from the starter and splice into the one purple wire by the booster to make it simple. any insight appreciated guys.
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

If your purple wire is there already, just trace it to the loom before you cut it. All you are doing is upgrading the connection from the the loom. It's pretty easy.

:)
 

tydye

Banned
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

This subject has been discussed to death. There are NUMEROUS ways to "fix" this issue. Lots of peeps have come up with various methods, and have opinions as to which ways are 'best'. Here's my method. It's easy. It fits into a compact, vacant area on the firewall. $5.00 part. No wires are "spliced" because the original pur wire is pulled out of the engine harness, and connected to the relay. And, it fixes the problem permanently. It works.

Here's a pic of the relay mounted on firewall, to the Left of the power terminal. I don't normally use butt-splices in my installations, but I wanted to use a pre-assembled 'pigtail' harness for the relay. Makes a slightly cleaner installation. The red wire coming off the relay is spliced to the original purple wire that I extracted from the engine harness. There are certainly ways to make this installation "cleaner", but this only took 10 mins to do.
PurpleWireHelperRelay.jpg


Here's a quick hand sketch of the circuit:
PurpleWireSketch.jpg


Simple. Effective. Inexpensive. And it works.
DaveP

thanks
 
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Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

I don't like the above option - the purple wire is already providing current to a relay. This fix has a relay to a relay...

Trace the purple wire across the back of the firewall to the loom and just cut it and splice it there. Thicker guage is good, as is heat shielding. Run it to the starter and off you go!

Good luck :)
 

tydye

Banned
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

I don't like the above option - the purple wire is already providing current to a relay. This fix has a relay to a relay...

Trace the purple wire across the back of the firewall to the loom and just cut it and splice it there. Thicker guage is good, as is heat shielding. Run it to the starter and off you go!

Good luck :)

yea thats the way i wanted to go. i am using some 12g silicone wire and will do just that i think. i read about the relay method and now that im already back home without a relay makes sense to just run a new wire and cut it. thanks for the insight.

AND DAMN was the starter a pain in the arse to get out! lol whoever said it needed to be rotated 180 degrees was full of BS because you cant even do that. either way going back in wont be so bad since i paid attention to myself taking it out. or i hope to think i did lol. being a big dude under neath doesn't help.
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

I hear you - I am 6'4" and hate working in those small spaces.

There is a trick to the starter but it's been a while.

Make sure you give yourself some extra length on the purple wire, or better yet, connect the 12 guage part to the terminal then mount the starter to the truck and run the wire after it's fitted. You do NOT want to have too short a piece of wire when you're mounting the starter.

Enjoy!
 

tydye

Banned
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

I hear you - I am 6'4" and hate working in those small spaces.

There is a trick to the starter but it's been a while.

Make sure you give yourself some extra length on the purple wire, or better yet, connect the 12 guage part to the terminal then mount the starter to the truck and run the wire after it's fitted. You do NOT want to have too short a piece of wire when you're mounting the starter.

Enjoy!

yea what i was doing was like you said kinda, i was going to put the connector on the wire feed it down then connect it to the starter while the starter was off since i will never be able to get my mitts in there and mount starter pull up the wire and splice the purple wire just need to locate a good spot where to splice into it. i guess by the brake booster from what i found unless you think anywhere else.

tell you one thing i will be thankful the crappy clicking tryn to start annoyance will be gone.
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

I to am doing this project, I managed to get the wire off the starter using a 1/4 drive 8mm shorty socket from the wheel well. I cut the wire about 6 inches up from the ring connector...right above this big ball of tape that I came across on the wire. I then went on top and pulled the purple wire up from where it exists the harness on the pass. side of the dizzy (not easy). the ring connector itself was bent, and had fatigued a crack about 1/2 the overall width of the connector. I replaced it, and fished it down the back of the engine as far as i could, then pulled it from the bottom using a bent piece of brake line I had found. tightened it on from the wheel well, and boom! still click click start, i then searched above the brake booster for the wire itself, found it, and cut it. Using a piece of stereo wire I found I sent power directly to it, and the starter spun over lie there was no issue at all, in fact, the solenoid was MUCH louder then it was when I had gotten it to start previously. I am going to clean that junction thing on the firewall, as it is badly corroded, and hook it back up and try again, it that doesn't work (i'm hoping that might be the origin of the power that runs the solenoid, but I dont have a schematic) if that does work, I have bought a ford solenoid off a F-150 for 12 dollars from the zone, and will run that in. (yes, I realize that my truck will reject the ford part, Ill have to perform an exorcism before I try an start it)
 

tydye

Banned
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

I to am doing this project, I managed to get the wire off the starter using a 1/4 drive 8mm shorty socket from the wheel well. I cut the wire about 6 inches up from the ring connector...right above this big ball of tape that I came across on the wire. I then went on top and pulled the purple wire up from where it exists the harness on the pass. side of the dizzy (not easy). the ring connector itself was bent, and had fatigued a crack about 1/2 the overall width of the connector. I replaced it, and fished it down the back of the engine as far as i could, then pulled it from the bottom using a bent piece of brake line I had found. tightened it on from the wheel well, and boom! still click click start, i then searched above the brake booster for the wire itself, found it, and cut it. Using a piece of stereo wire I found I sent power directly to it, and the starter spun over lie there was no issue at all, in fact, the solenoid was MUCH louder then it was when I had gotten it to start previously. I am going to clean that junction thing on the firewall, as it is badly corroded, and hook it back up and try again, it that doesn't work (i'm hoping that might be the origin of the power that runs the solenoid, but I dont have a schematic) if that does work, I have bought a ford solenoid off a F-150 for 12 dollars from the zone, and will run that in. (yes, I realize that my truck will reject the ford part, Ill have to perform an exorcism before I try an start it)

yea thats why i contemplated just replacing the whole wire to above the brake booster i was just under it before dinner and the wire more then 4-6 inches going up from the starter was all cracked and aged, so im gonna use 12awg silicone wire solder the o ring connector on there then run it to the wire above the brake booster. heck the wire wasnt even purple going to the starter lol was just a charcoal and cracked. but the clock click start is partly my starter as my solenoid cap was very loose which would explain why some bangs on the floor would get her cranked over :)
 

tydye

Banned
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

You read me wrong. I was writing more for the peeps that have seen this discussed so many times. I responded to the dead links, etc, by posting my method, with pics. I was trying to help. Not get a bunch of flak from the OP regarding trying to help.

DaveP

your right i read it wrong then, sorry if that wasnt your intention. well either way i dont know what is better, and im certainly no electrician etc. i just wanted a solution without me going back to the store and not short cut. :)

but what i do know is only the first foot from the starter up was dried out and cracking the rest seems ok but i will be going all the way up to the brake booster so i eliminate any bad wire i over looked.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

:rant:Dave's fix WILL work! I've described a similar fix using a "Ford" relay. Also discussed here countless times. My point is that the relay driving a relay for the reasons stated by Dave later in the post has been used since the 60's in big trucks for just the reasons mentioned. You think our relay draws allot of juice a big truck starter relay is darn near as big as our starter!!

Just to be clear you could run 6ga wire all the way if you wanted and wouldn't help much because of the voltage drop across the starter switch on the steering column. Hence the need to use a small amount of juice to run the small relay to provide a lots of juice to run the "real" relay.:rant:
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

The reason it looks all weird is its basically encased with grease to keep it from corroding. Prolly gonna replace those screws, I don't trust them. ( I know its a ford solenoid, I'm embarrassed, but its the toughest 12V weather-pack solenoid I could find, and it was 10 bucks)
0219112255.jpg

This is the overal engine, the relay I added is on the top right corner.
0219112255a.jpg

hotobucket.com/albums/ll176/Bmfbbmfb/typhoon/0219112301.jpg[/IMG]
 

Peter

my Ty and me 25+ years
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

This fix has also worked for me now for probably 15 years. You can buy the 12 volt, 30 amp relay at Radio Shack. Besides eliminating the voltage drop of several feet of wire, the steering column switch, and the park neutral switch (as I recall), you can also run a larger wire from the new relay relay to the starter. The purple wire is just too small....
It looks like Dave's diagram mentions 10 gauge for the power.
 

tydye

Banned
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

:rant:Dave's fix WILL work! I've described a similar fix using a "Ford" relay. Also discussed here countless times. My point is that the relay driving a relay for the reasons stated by Dave later in the post has been used since the 60's in big trucks for just the reasons mentioned. You think our relay draws allot of juice a big truck starter relay is darn near as big as our starter!!

Just to be clear you could run 6ga wire all the way if you wanted and wouldn't help much because of the voltage drop across the starter switch on the steering column. Hence the need to use a small amount of juice to run the small relay to provide a lots of juice to run the "real" relay.:rant:

im not arguing it will or wont, but just making sure either method will work as many described in search etc.. here is a picture of mine, the wire was so cooked it was cracking off the brittle wire. but my starter was the main culprit because the cap on the solenoid was very lose and failed the test when tested. either way i put the starter in and reran the wire to the purple wire by the brake booster. but as the picture shows it was only the first 10 inches or so that it was cooked. im still finishing it up to test it.


what a pain in the arse doing this job either way, i had to improvise to get everything back in lol but went in ok. need to finish the wire and give it a try now.
 
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tydye

Banned
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

This fix has also worked for me now for probably 15 years. You can buy the 12 volt, 30 amp relay at Radio Shack. Besides eliminating the voltage drop of several feet of wire, the steering column switch, and the park neutral switch (as I recall), you can also run a larger wire from the new relay relay to the starter. The purple wire is just too small....
It looks like Dave's diagram mentions 10 gauge for the power.


ok so what i will do is finish the wire and then pickup a relay and do it like you guys mention. when i get more time. :)
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

No prob, that's why I put up the rant symbol. It's a poor design that I like to think GM would have fixed had the SyTy line stayed in production.

Here's what I did when I relocated the bat to the bed. Even with this setup I've had to add heat protection to the black abrasion tubing you see because of the closeness of the 3" down pipe I have. The upper of the two black cables you see is a ground cable which I've since eliminated because it dawned on me I have solid motor mounts which eliminated the need. Duh.

Bat-alt-solenoid-wires-at-s.jpg
 

Jimmy

Banned
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

Aboot 10 years ago,I bought a mini starter and some 10 gauge wire.
I found the THICKEST purple wire over the brake booster,replaced it to the solenoid on the tiny little starter,and have had 0 problems since.

I mean with starters and clicks.I got 99 problems,but that ain't one of them :tup:
 

whiteTy1214

New member
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

just fixed my starter and purple wire fix. no more click click start! opened the harnness by the brake booster, found purple wire, which was the big one in there. went to the wires on starter, disconnected.
pulled the starter out, which i removed the front driveshaft and the inspection cover. came right out after that. I went with the 96 454 mini starter 9990S. used 2000 degree heat wrap, then used stainless clamps for cv axle boots to make sure it dont fall off from the heat. I bought some thermal tube wrap from napa which was good for 2000* also. pulled the wire out from the bottom by starter pulling pretty hard till it came out. i just used some 10awg purple wire, but had to buy a roll of 100ft. used solder and heat shrink. took my time. but did start right up several times now. if it gives me problems again. i will install the relay idea. thanks for all your replys to helping getting this figured out!
 

tydye

Banned
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

just fixed my starter and purple wire fix. no more click click start! opened the harnness by the brake booster, found purple wire, which was the big one in there. went to the wires on starter, disconnected.
pulled the starter out, which i removed the front driveshaft and the inspection cover. came right out after that. I went with the 96 454 mini starter 9990S. used 2000 degree heat wrap, then used stainless clamps for cv axle boots to make sure it dont fall off from the heat. I bought some thermal tube wrap from napa which was good for 2000* also. pulled the wire out from the bottom by starter pulling pretty hard till it came out. i just used some 10awg purple wire, but had to buy a roll of 100ft. used solder and heat shrink. took my time. but did start right up several times now. if it gives me problems again. i will install the relay idea. thanks for all your replys to helping getting this figured out!

yea im going the same route. i havnt started mine yet as i was tired last night. but if it gives me any problems in the next month or so in comes a relay as mention!. glad it worked out.
 

Espritmike

New member
Re: Replacing starter and "PURPLE" wire w/Question.

just fixed my starter and purple wire fix. no more click click start! opened the harnness by the brake booster, found purple wire, which was the big one in there. went to the wires on starter, disconnected.
pulled the starter out, which i removed the front driveshaft and the inspection cover. came right out after that. I went with the 96 454 mini starter 9990S. used 2000 degree heat wrap, then used stainless clamps for cv axle boots to make sure it dont fall off from the heat. I bought some thermal tube wrap from napa which was good for 2000* also. pulled the wire out from the bottom by starter pulling pretty hard till it came out. i just used some 10awg purple wire, but had to buy a roll of 100ft. used solder and heat shrink. took my time. but did start right up several times now. if it gives me problems again. i will install the relay idea. thanks for all your replys to helping getting this figured out!


Yeah, go with the mini starter. Works better and is easier to work with. Make sure bolts aren't too long (starter is about 1/4" shorter)
 
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