R134A conversion...what all parts do you need?

Teahead

Member
Need a new accumulator, right? E.g.:


Doesn't show whether it's for both R12 or R134a.

Do we need a new R134a Switch?

Does the new accumulator need thread adapters for the above switch? ALso for the new low (on the accumulator) and high (on the pipe) tap ports?
Found this pic on the internet that looks like maybe it has adapters for R134a???

Of course, change the orifice tube.

1696886703326.png
 
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Poconojoe

Donating Member
You need to drain the oil out of the system and replace it, including draining the compressor. You should also flush the system out. Why are you changing to 134, since it is also being phased out? Why not just put in a drop in replacement, like Freeze12, where you can just put it in, with no changes?
 

Poconojoe

Donating Member
Freeze 12 is R134a.

R134a is being phased out when? Like in 2050?
Freeze 12 is not 134, since it still uses mineral oil, which 134 can't do. They've already phased out 134 in a lot of vehicles already. By the way, after January 1,2024, you can no longer build new devices, that use 134
 

-Wip-

Typhoon
Rather than converting my system, I tried envirosafe artic air r-12 replacement frion. It works well for my truck.
 

Rexxenexx

Active member
Thanks. Having a guy give me options this week. 33K miles, original R-12, original everything. Just not enough pressure on the dryer to kick it on. I'll post results too so we all have an idea of whats available these days.
 

Rexxenexx

Active member
The guy was very knowledgeable. He said DO NOT put Freeze12. It's part 134 and some other refrigerant and tends to separate. It's like the EPA bullshit rigged the system so its now designed to change refrigerant every so many years. If you still have 100% R12 system, put R12. If you convert to 134 you'll just be converting to 123 whatever shits next.
I had 0.25 lb of 100% R12, the machine he used vacuumed then filled it to spec I think it was 2.5 lbs. It's SUPER cold now.
 
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