New wheels on the typhoon

charlestonty

New member
I was looking on craigslist for giggles and stumbled upon C5 wheels from a Vette. I had no idea if they would fit but the ad stated that the car was purchased and the wheels came off the day it got home for aftermarkets. So the wheels and tires were brand new. I offered 200 not thinking he would bite and not knowing if the would fit. He took it and here it is.
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ajt86

Member
Re: New wheels on the typhoon

they are 17/18" staggered, check your tire sizes to make sure the rev per mile match- if not find a set that will so you don't hurt the tcase clutch, I have the same wheels coated competition grey
 

Static

Member
Re: New wheels on the typhoon

He already knows that the tires are an inch different, He posted the sizes in another thread and said he could hear whining while driving which is the tcase clutch
 

ChiPhoon

Chicago Typhoon!
Re: New wheels on the typhoon

He already knows that the tires are an inch different, He posted the sizes in another thread and said he could hear whining while driving which is the tcase clutch

didnt read the other thread, but understood.....
 

charlestonty

New member
Re: New wheels on the typhoon

Might have taught myself a lesson. Had the wheels on for under 100 miles. Put stickers back on and still have the noise. I guess for preventative measures since the car has high miles anyway I might just replace clutch in tcase. Anyone with information on that job please pm me. Dumb thing to learn off the bat but Oh well. It's not my grand national! Lol, lesson learned
 

djsy934

Active member

charlestonty

New member
Re: New wheels on the typhoon

I read the other thread. You had a 85 Rev Per MILE difference with those tires. ( I calculate the difference by multiplying the tire mis-match by the axle ratio of 3.42 to determine the mis-match at the T-Case). This is severe. You've very likely locked-up the V-clutch.

Here's what I'd try/do next:
  • Remove the front prop shaft.
  • Perform the "DaveP V-Clutch test".
  • If you find that the V-clutch is indeed locked, leave the prop shaft out, and drive it in RWD until you get around to fixing the T-case.
  • You will probably notice that the "whine" goes away with the prop shaft removed.
  • The whine is coming from the front differential because the T-case is locked.
  • Keep driving it like it is, and you'll need a front diff as well as T-case repairs. The front diff will self-destruct before the T-case itself suffers any further damage. Or maybe the front propshaft will blow instead. But something will bust if you keep driving it with a locked V-Clutch.

This is an ongoing debate on here. How much tire mismatch is "OK". Everyone guesses. But for the 2-3 guys here that KNOW how these T-Cases work, based on their experience, the only acceptable answer is "just about perfect" if you want to have long V-clutch and drive train component lives.

Tough lesson, for sure.
How will I know if I damaged the front diff? Will it be obvious?
 
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