Does anyone know how to lower the torrision bars?
- Thread starter 0966Sy
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7dhamper
New member
I do belive that the stock torsion bar adjuster arms on the Syclone And Typhoon are in fact a Belltech 3 inch drop arm. That would be 3 inches from a factory GMC Jimmy 4X4 or Chevy Blazer. Which would explain how it is possible that all of the suspension pieces (upper and lower A arms, spindles, ect...) carry the same GM part #'s, yet it is pretty obvious that the Sy's and Ty's sit lower than their 4X4 counterparts. If this is the case, and I'm not positive that it is, then I thought of something that might interest you all.
I have dropped my '89 4X4 Jimmy somwhere between 5 - 6 inches in the front by taking apart my torsion bar cross member and re-installing it with the adjuster arms up-side-down. Everything still works the way it should, adjuster bolt controls ride height, ect... What this means to you guys is that if you went to the junk yard and got 4X4 adjuster arms and installed them up-side-down, you would get about a 2 - 3 inch drop to what you have right now. With an 18 inch wheel package being a little bit taller overall than the 245/50SR16's that these trucks came with, this drop would compensate for the height difference and actually yeild a 1 - 2 inch drop on the new rims. With a 4 inch angled block on the rear, the truck would sit level. I hate blocks though, so I'd opt for new shocks and move the shackle hole back about an inch to get the drop. This could all be put back to stock with little evidence that it was ever lowered for resale purposes. Just a thought!
I have dropped my '89 4X4 Jimmy somwhere between 5 - 6 inches in the front by taking apart my torsion bar cross member and re-installing it with the adjuster arms up-side-down. Everything still works the way it should, adjuster bolt controls ride height, ect... What this means to you guys is that if you went to the junk yard and got 4X4 adjuster arms and installed them up-side-down, you would get about a 2 - 3 inch drop to what you have right now. With an 18 inch wheel package being a little bit taller overall than the 245/50SR16's that these trucks came with, this drop would compensate for the height difference and actually yeild a 1 - 2 inch drop on the new rims. With a 4 inch angled block on the rear, the truck would sit level. I hate blocks though, so I'd opt for new shocks and move the shackle hole back about an inch to get the drop. This could all be put back to stock with little evidence that it was ever lowered for resale purposes. Just a thought!
I am confused about the whole 19 turns = 1 inch. That seems a bit extreme to me. When I did mine I didn't count how many times I turned it but I think if I made 19 FULL turns on the bolt - it would prolly come out. Maybe 19 turns will yield 1 inch on the bolt - MAYBE. But, I don't think that number is going to directly relate to the ride height. I could be way off on this - but I don't think so.
And yes, get an alignment if you make any changes to the torsion bars. The other thing you will want to do it adjust them, go drive for awhile to get the suspension to settle in, measure ride height and adjust as needed. If all looks right - then go get an alignment - and tell the jackholes at the alignment shop not to adjust ride height to 4x4 specs.
And yes, get an alignment if you make any changes to the torsion bars. The other thing you will want to do it adjust them, go drive for awhile to get the suspension to settle in, measure ride height and adjust as needed. If all looks right - then go get an alignment - and tell the jackholes at the alignment shop not to adjust ride height to 4x4 specs.
7dhamper
New member
The trick to not having negative camber with the torsion bar adjuster arms flipped over to yeild a 5-6 inch drop is very simple:
Swap the L and R upper control arms. Put the L A-arm on the right side up-side-down, with the ball joint underneath the spindle's mounting point rather than on top. Do the same thing on the left side with the R A-arm. Use NEW "heavy duty" 4X4 "HEIM" style ball joints to insure long wear.
Now remeber, if you have a Sy or Ty you must use 4X4 S-10 or Sonoma/Jimmy adjuster Arms. I do believe that the Sy/Ty "keys" are in fact Beltech 3 in drop keys and to flip those would bottom out the front end.
You may also want to remove the factory bump stops and instal some aftermarket "pancake" ones so you're not metal-to-metal if you hit.
Swap the L and R upper control arms. Put the L A-arm on the right side up-side-down, with the ball joint underneath the spindle's mounting point rather than on top. Do the same thing on the left side with the R A-arm. Use NEW "heavy duty" 4X4 "HEIM" style ball joints to insure long wear.
Now remeber, if you have a Sy or Ty you must use 4X4 S-10 or Sonoma/Jimmy adjuster Arms. I do believe that the Sy/Ty "keys" are in fact Beltech 3 in drop keys and to flip those would bottom out the front end.
You may also want to remove the factory bump stops and instal some aftermarket "pancake" ones so you're not metal-to-metal if you hit.
7dhamper
New member
Because the leaves are connected to the frame higher in the back at the shackles than they are at the front, moving trhe axle up with a block makes it dip forward. The shorter side of the block goes to the back. An angled "wedge" goes in from the front.
Hey, how do those glass leaves ride?
Hey, how do those glass leaves ride?
warmpancakes
New member
lift the passanger side a little its real common Ill even bet it droops more when the gas tank is full the factory height for the trucks the passanger side was a little lower to compensate for this Ken
well those glass leaves, one just cracked looks twisted pretty bad 4 months old, but before this happened very stiff, border line unbearable, then i took sway bar off & 1" lowering block, much better, does not handle like a go-kart anymore but also does not ride like one ! lol