Brake light on

Slyclone

Well-known member
Did some brake work the past few days had a stuck caliper on driver side followed by a collapsed hose. Replaced rotors/pads/caliper and new flexible lines.

Before I did the work my brake light was on. Did the work and it still appears to be on.

It's been about a decade since I've looked at the brakes. Years ago I remember having to mash the pedal almost completely to the floor to get the light off. It's been so long I just really am having a hard time verify that.

I did notice a ABS sensor wire attached to the backing plate is slit or severed. Not sure how it happened it's fasten up and held in place looks like some extended travel on the front end as my (new) old frame limiters have made contact. Little rubber wedges/blocks on the upper control arm. I guess the wire contacted with the axle and spun the wire shield and severed 1 wire. Just curious if that will set the light off. If so looks like another break down. IMG_20220411_133216.jpgIMG_20220411_134317.jpg
 

Jay92Ty

Donating Member
Possibly the E-Brake pedal? Just a thought ...only because my brake light was on at one point and it turned out the Ebrake pedal was slightly malfunctioning. I thought it was fully released but turned out it was slightly pressed enough to turn the light on but ,not enough to really engage it.
Again probably not in your case but might wanna check that.
 

2500avalanche

Well-known member
Do you mean the brake light on the rear of the vehicle? There is a silanoid under the dash that is attached to the brake pedal to throw that signal light
 

DaveP's Ghost

Well-known member
Is the ANTILOCK light also on? If = yes, Disconnect the 10-pin connector on the ABS. Did both lights go off/ If = yes, you have ABS codes that are turning on both lights.

If ONLY the BRAKE light is on: Disconnect the tan/wht wire from the proportioning valve. Did BRAKE light go off? If = YES, you need to 'center' the brake pressure valve in the proportioning valve. The easiest way is to have a helper. Finish bleeding the brakes, say the last one you do is a front. Go to the rear. Have the helper turn the key to RUN, push on the pedal, and watch the BRAKE light. Open the bleeder, and when the helper calls "off", close the bleeder.
 

Slyclone

Well-known member
Thanks for the response Dave. Going to try and investigate that one. Seems pretty easy to mend the light. It is only the BRAKE light- nothing else so far. Trying to get the vehicle up to speed/ road worthy
 

Slyclone

Well-known member
Got around to this and disconnected the wire. Light stayed on.

Ended up going forward and bleeding both sides twice. Light still on.

Assuming I need new rear brake shoes or a adjustment. Up on the lift now review a few things. Making sure there is no more leaks. Noticing some weeping coming from rear main seal, probably due to long term sitting and I have a few drops on between the transfcase and adapter I guess I screwed up that day the botls we're actually loose. Not sure if the gasket seeing some transmission fluid is going to cause it to not seal. Just tightened the dog shit out of them.

Been meaning to bring the manual with me to and have it handy. I'm sure it would go over that section. Just haven't done 91 brakes in a while. I believe it's a simple adjustment, or the shoes are worn. Been long time.
 

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DaveP's Ghost

Well-known member
Got around to this and disconnected the wire. Light stayed on.
If you disconnected the tan/wht wire from the combination valve, the light stayed on, its not a brake pressure problem.
If you disconnect the 10-pin on the ABS, the light stayed on, it is not the ABS.

The only thing left is the Park Brake switch. Up near the fuse box is a switch with a single, yes, tan/white wire.

So 3 different sources can turn on the BRAKE light through the tan/wht wire. Keep disconnecting them until the light goes off.
 

Slyclone

Well-known member
Was reading in the manual and it noted the parking brake could be on. I was doing a lot of work right there and could have bumped the pedal slightly. I'll check that out.
 

Slyclone

Well-known member
My first attempt was to jiggle the parking brake release and it seemed all the way popped. I moved on to wiggling the actual pedal and it was good.

Removed the 10 pin plug in weather pack connector located on the top of the ABS. I wasn't sure which one was 10 pin I counted both. After counting I noticed the tan/white ...on the other closest to the passenger side and figured that was the one I was looking for.

After removing that connector and turning the key on the brake light did go out. I didn't plug it back in- not sure the next step if I plug it in and it goes out.
 
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