Brake boost Launch control module installed

[ed hess]

Fixing brake launch problems for good

So my brakes wouldn’t hold for even 1 lb. of boost at launch.
I read others had the same problem and didn’t want to do an upgrade
As expensive as a baer front & rear conversion. I had already changed rear cylinders to 7/8 with dual large shoes on each side but it did not help. Someone mentioned
Rons Custom Auto,
305 S. Michigan Avenue, Kenilworth, NJ 07033
1-908-241-7211
http://www.homestead.com/prosites-ronj/Index.html
As selling what is called. A Max Boost Launch Control Module. Cost is $170. This was designed for Grand National’s some of which have the same brake holding problem as some syclones. Ron told me, “That just as some have the problem others don’t but no one seems to be able to figure out why”.

So I order it and did the install. Since I was breaking new ground here I didn’t want to cut any of the OEM brake lines. I should mention that the unit comes with install directions for a GN but not a syclone or typhoon. To play it safe I did the install with inverted flare brake adapters from Earls (holley). Note that Russell - Eedelbrock didn’t have a large enough inverted flare adapter which adapt to #3 an braided flexible steel lines for the master cylinder out. This way I could restore things back to stock if it failed or just plain didn’t work. But I just didn’t want to go through the trouble of Cutting, flaring and bending lines in such a tight confined area. The bracket for the module was made using an old siren mount bracket and some aluminum strap I had laying around.

CAUTION:
One note about all these fittings is that they are designed for BRAKE LINE PRESSURES. I would not substitute anything which is not designed for use with a braking system.

To adapt the lines from the Launch Module to #3 AN I used Russell No
641311 7/16 24tpi #3an if (inverted flare) adapters.

To adapter the master cylinder rear wheel output I used Earls (Holly)
No 592048 9/16-18tpi if . Note that the front wheel output is a smaller size.

To adapt the combination valve IN to no #3AN I used
Earls #591932 –3AN to 7/16-24 IF into top of combination valve

To adapt the Combination valve out to #3An I used
Earls #592046 –3AN to ½-20 IF on bottom of combination valve

To adapt the Rear ABS IN to #3AN I used
Earls #591932 -AN to 7/16-24 IF into ABS unit.

For tees I Used Bulkhead style An3 from Russell NO 643301 $21.31 ea. quan 2.
I only used the bulkhead style because my supplier WD Distributor Keystone Automotive was out of the regular tee no 642981 and I didn’t want to wait. Although I didn’t, this would allow mounting the tees into a bracket.
I didn’t do this but simply wire tied things. A little more playing with line lengths would be required for this. It still ended as a clean looking install.

The lines are a combination of
9 inch 90 degree x straight #3AN Russell No 655012 $18.55 ea. quan 2
12 inch 90 degree x straight #3AN Russell No 655022 $19.52 ea. quan 4

Since the master cylinder was old with 97k on it and I suffer from the ailment of “hey ya know while your at why don’t ya…” I bought a new master cylinder (not rebuilt). Bench bleed the master cylinder before installing.

So taking my good old time about it. Removed the line between the master cylinder and the combination valve. Removed the line between the combination valve and the ABS rear input. Installed the fitting AN adapters listed here. Installed the lines. Bleed the lines by slightly loosening until no air came out while cycling the module was both on and off.

To wire the module in I ran a fused hot to the OEM terminal block on the firewall. Ran the other line into the drivers compartment. I didn’t want to have to hold a momentary switch when launching. So I set it up with a red pushbutton momentary with an red led. I used a Directed Electronics latching relay #611T. push the red button, led is on, module is sending all of the rear output from the master cylinder rear circuit to the rear brakes.
The brake pedal is noticeably stiffer when the module is engaged. Press the button again to disengage after your heart stops pumping from your better run.

Did it work: Well I haven’t been to the track yet to see if my 60ft time is better than the previous 1.97.
So I back out of the shop, turn it on, pressed the brake all the way down, sat there talking casually to someone out the window while sitting still looking at 5 psi on the gauge and the truck is not creeping whatsoever!!!! Mission accomplished. Let go of the brakes and the tires began spinning. Yeah it works.

The part I like about this is it more straight forward to stage than having to go into neutral, bring up your rpms, while holding your foot down to get that last little extra bit of pedal travel, then get back into gear and hope the tree lights haven’t already started down while you were trying to stage.

I would appreciate if some of you would place this onto the sy-ty websites for others to have in the future.

Photo follows

Edward Hess
Auto Dogz Inc
158 White Horse Pike
Audubon NJ 08106
856-546-8439
856-546-0915 fax
www.autodogz.com
ehess1@qwest.net

http://www.autodogz.com/syclone.html

 

[ed hess]

Sorry but i just dont understand the bbcode syntax. click on the link and you can see it.
ed

 

[TheObiJuan]

sweet wright up.
question? what modifications do you have that only allow you to run 1 psi off the line without spinning?
what kind of times were you runnin before?

david, myclone, who is now in the 11's can hold a lot more than 5psi without the Boost Launch Control Module.

also, do you have any plans for removing your abs anytime soon?

ps. nice paint...can really see the tree and sky pretty well. 8)

 

[ed hess]

as i said some have brakes that will hold some dont!
I couldnt hold the truck from creeping.
Only did 1 run on truck because i discovered broken motor mount.
That run was only 14.3, 1.9760ft. I had the boost turned down to only 14!!!!!!. I was planning on more runs and turning it up but didnt because of the mount. Now in the process of makin some changes before i get back to track. Those changes are done and i need to go back and test.

One of those changes was ultimate chip.

I have only owned the truck since new, 12 years, why hurry. lol

No mods to prohibit spinning. But they wouldnt spin before I added the module. They will now.

The abs is staying. It has saved me more than once.

 

[InvisiBill]

FYI, http://syty.net/phpBB2/faq.php?mode=bbcode should help you out. BBCode is basically the same as HTML, but you use regular square brackets instead of angle brackets. Obviously some tags are disabled to make things more secure and happy.

Back on topic, what all did you try before to stop the creeping? Maybe I'm just in the lucky "doesn't creep" bunch, but it would seem to me that something isn't working properly, not just "It doesn't work. Oh well."

 

[ed hess]

like i said

>>>I had already changed rear cylinders to 7/8 with dual large shoes on each side but it did not help.<<<

also bleeding everything before the module was installed didnt help.

fwiw, when i installed the module, i bleed the lines and abs but never did bleed the calipers and cylinders. Just tested a bit early before putting it on the lift to finish the bleeding. IT WORKED THAT WELL

Only thing i can guess is manufacturing tolerances in the combination valve. Essentially this module simply bypass's the valve when its on.

My original rear shoes had 97k on them. The larger shoe looked like new. Truck stopped fine just like everyone elses.

the bb code example leaves me stumped. perhpas a better example with some descriptive text for how to do it?

 

[TheObiJuan]

like i said

>>>I had already changed rear cylinders to 7/8 with dual large shoes on each side but it did not help.<<<

also bleeding everything before the module was installed didnt help.

fwiw, when i installed the module, i bleed the lines and abs but never did bleed the calipers and cylinders. Just tested a bit early before putting it on the lift to finish the bleeding. IT WORKED THAT WELL

Only thing i can guess is manufacturing tolerances in the combination valve. Essentially this module simply bypass's the valve when its on.

My original rear shoes had 97k on them. The larger shoe looked like new. Truck stopped fine just like everyone elses.

the bb code example leaves me stumped. perhpas a better example with some descriptive text for how to do it?

with this bb you dont need to know descriptive texts. use the preset buttons. if you want to show an image, click the Img button then the link, then the button again, same with quotes, and with url's.

 

[InvisiBill]

My original rear shoes had 97k on them. The larger shoe looked like new. Truck stopped fine just like everyone elses.

Perhaps they weren't adjusted properly if the shoes still looked new? I dunno. I'm not saying you're wrong or anything, it just seems weird to me that there would be so much variance between trucks...

the bb code example leaves me stumped. perhpas a better example with some descriptive text for how to do it?

I really don't know if I can get any more descriptive than that page. You pick the tag that you want to use (url, img, quote, etc.) and put square brackets around it. Then put the link or the the pic's URL or the text you want to quote. Then another set of square brackets, this time with a slash then the tag (/url, /img, /quote, etc.). Like TheObiJuan said, clicking the buttons above the Reply box will automatically add the bracketed tags for you too. Just click the URL button, type the link, and click the URL button again. The tag tells it how to format the following text, and the /tag tells where the selected text ends...

 

[Tydriver]

COOL....... I read that article that GMHTP did about this a couple months back and I figuired it would work for us. Among the LONG LIST of other upgrades I have done to my Ty I recently installed rear disks off an LS1 car and was wondering how much HOLDING FORCE I was going to forfeit.

If I have any other problems I know i can go this route.. Thanks alot, thats a bad ass post.. Nice to see the technical advice and all the part #s.

One suggestion/question tho... Do you think its possible to wire it into the brake switch for the releasing of the brakes would trigger the releasing of the module assy?

I was thinking of a switch to energize it ON/OFF and then using somehow to rig it to the brake lights so when ya step off the pedal it dumps all the fluid. Then going part way down the track you could switch the safety switch off so as no to energize it at the big end.. Can only imagine what kinda endo would happen from that..

Just thinking out loud but then again thanks for the information.. If my truck ever moves under its own power again I will have to keep this in mind.

 

[ed hess]

let me clarify this a bit
>>Do you think its possible to wire it into the brake switch for the >>releasing of the brakes would trigger the releasing of the module >>assy?
>>I was thinking of a switch to energize it ON/OFF and then using >>somehow to rig it to the brake lights so when ya step off the pedal it >>dumps all the fluid.

fist of, forget a comaparison to line lock which is what you are implying here re "dumps all the fluid". When you let go of the pedal the fluid pressure is released with this.

>> Then going part way down the track you could switch the safety >>switch off so as no to energize it at the big end.. Can only imagine >>what kinda endo would happen from that..

The setup i did does exactly this... near the end (sfter your heart slows) you press the button and the latching relay sets the solenoid back to oem mode per se.

Now suppose you didnt turn it off, and you hit the brakes with the solenoid engaged . Then your abs controls avoidance of the rear brakes locking up. I havent tried this on the street from a panic stop perspective but, I have with normal braking and there wasnt any locking up at the rear.
Anyway simply turning it off at the end should be easy to remember which is why i added a large red light next to the switch, to remind me!

Keep in mind, the latching relay setup i used is not a part of the kit. I added it in. I did not want to hold a momentary switch (which is not supplied in the kit btw) ON a shifter which is in 3rd gear for racing. The reason being the stock shifter does not have a lock position if you were to pull it back inadvertatnly when you come off the line.

hope this clears things up.

ed

 

[ed hess]

using the brake pedal Brake light switch in combinantion with a toggle switch could do the same thing. I highly suggest the led so that you know what mode you are in. I just happened to have the latching relay here as i am a Dealer for Directed Electronics Viper car alarm product line.

www.autodogz.com.

Check out the dog on our products page.

ed