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alright ya i drilled the hole a bit bigger than I needed and gooped it on both sides with quicksteel fuel tank epoxy. So far so good, been about 15 years

the wire upgrade stuff should be fine until the insulation is cracking off, im interested to hear what its doing thats got you spooked. Its been a while since iv been in a tank like that, but those look like the connections in the tank. The square connector plugs into the bulkhead on the...

what about the bulkhead itself? Did you leave it stock?

In the circuit I found in my s10 haynes manual shows the oil pressure switch and relay being in parallel like you said. The way it would work (as pictured, reality could be different (lol)) is after there is oil pressure you could remove the relay and the FP would still get power to run until...

imo no, all stock works better together. If you were trying to push boost past the 14psi and didnt wanna tune the fpr is a way to gain a bit up top but, its all voodoo that i say stay away from

Your alright The melted bulkhead wire is pretty common. Its just a cast piece of plastic with 4 metal strips hardset into it that flow the current for the pump and float sensor. Your 3d printing skillz may help you with this one day to remake a better one with thicker strips. Cooler fuel...

im pretty sure the oil pressure switch thing is a scam. I do no believe it interferes with pump activity. I tried to find a schematic to see if I was right and all I could find was a doc where the pressure switch was in parallel with the relay. Be interested to get corrected on this one. I...

I had one of those filters plug up on me faster than I thought one could. The filter size is no where near as big as the stock one (if its the same sorta metal screen deal I had)

id bet fuel pump still. Interested to hear what they came up with.

How many 3800 typhoon exist out there? A set of circumstances has me considering putting these 2 together.

the fan works hard when you are sitting in traffic. Slow roads with lights give it a work out. Anything over say 35mph is enough to cool the rad without the fan though. It sounds like you are overheating on the highway, and the highway is the coolest place to drive. I have an Efan on my...

kinda the only thing I can think of for white puffs, oil is a distinct blue grey color. As long as it isnt disappearing your doing alright

on the dipstick no, the valve seals are sorta isolated from that. Weird story though, white fart on second startup. Not loosing any coolant by chance is it?

more power is quicker. Ive been out of the game for a while, so things could have come along that i am not aware of, but last I knew a 3bar isnt possible without rescaling the fueling tables. All sensors on this bitch operate on a 5v signal, map included. Means that 0V comes to represent...

how long does it take you to put that kinda millage on it? If you have blowby, the fuely air skating past the rings is going into your crankcase, and into the oil. Fuel breaks oil down faster in these situations, and you should change it more based on time than millage. Get used to what fresh...

more timing doesn't mean more power, its just offsetting a slower flame with a slower burning fuel. More boost is more air is more power. You tunnin?

interesting observation there, I understand the fear The conditions you describe are normal driving. Any speed, for any amount of time of normalish highway driving shouldn't overheat your oil. That being said, it would be good to see what the temp actually is. Easiest way I can think of is...

water cooled turbo might keep it cool. How much endurance are we talking here?

thanks, its my first one in years. Also, I def put it in the wrong section (currently in chassis/electrical)

Went to start the ty after it sat all winter last year and it ran weird. Seemed to like starting/idling, and would rev- but hesitated, popped a bit...and felt gutless Downloaded the tune and it was jumbled. Thought maybe I had the wrong def file, but didnt understand how. I found an old...