DP removal & install w/pics

Loeryder

New member
Re: DP removal

Re: DP removal

Got my JSM DP in tonight.
3 times actually!

I did it leaving the turbo in because I am going to tackle the porting of the exhaust housing IF I have time before Nats. I wanted to do the DP before I put all my AC dryer back on.
My 20G already had the studs removed so it made it easier.

Couple hints:
Make a template off of your stock DP for the 3 holes and compare that to the JSM flange BEFORE you get it in there and all positioned and find out the bolts don't quite line up straight.
I had to open up all 3 holes a tad towards the outer edge to let it sit flat and square.
Almost cross threaded that inside bolt a couple times before I took it back off for more file massaging.

Attach the 2 pieces into one BEFORE you start bolting it to the turbo.
Yeah this was the 2nd time I had to remove the upper DP from the turbo.

Antiseize every bolt as it goes back on.
If you remove one for adjustments apply a 2nd coat.

I bought 3" stainless band clamps off ebay that worked out awesome on the DP and the Cat slip joints. Still need to attach the Cat to the cat back.
Theres about a 14" gap right now that I am not sure what I'm gonna do with.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: DP removal

Re: DP removal

Hope to finish my hack job on the turbo today but the studs are the main issue, we'll see. I did notice a slight misalignment between the DP flange and the studs. That will be an easy fix. On mine ate least, with a tiny bit more room the nuts would have fit. Hoping to find stainless allen bolts at the hardware store.
 

Loeryder

New member
Re: DP removal

Re: DP removal

Good luck finding stainless.
10mm x 1.5 pitch and I think it was the 25 thread count length.

The stainless stuff I found in cap head socket stopped at 8mm.
The 10mm stainless stuff was pan heads and they were bigger around than the socket heads.
You'll probably settle for the oxide finished socket cap heads like I did.
I tried 2 specialty hardware stores, 2 auto parts stores and a home depot and gave up.

Started it up with just the DP and a 3" cat on there and DAMN, I don't think I am going to hang an exhaust just yet. lol
Other than fuming me out of the storage locker REAL quick it sounded FN BAD!

I did get some nice stepped design clamps off ebay in stainless.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...STRK:MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=120151526754&rd=1
I bought 2, but I needed 3.
 

SY2932

Administrator
Re: DP removal

Re: DP removal

Loeryder said:
Started it up with just the DP and a 3" cat on there and DAMN, I don't think I am going to hang an exhaust just yet. lol
Other than fuming me out of the storage locker REAL quick it sounded FN BAD!

Heh, wait until you try DRIVING it like that
icon_lol.gif
! With my PTE setup with the dump open, at cruise on the highway it drones so bad I HAVE to open the windows a bit or it sounds like the sound is inside my head. But it's puts a big smile on my face :D! Kinda like listening to the old "this is a test of the emergency broadcast system" tone that they used to use.

GREAT to hear everything is getting back together for ya. It is LONG overdue :cool:!
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: DP removal

Re: DP removal

Up 'till now I've been running with the stock DP, 3" cat and a side dump ahead of the rear tire no muffler. Sounded great. A bit loud at full throttle but fun.
 

It's just a six

Super Member
Re: DP removal

Re: DP removal

Don W. said:
Up 'till now I've been running with the stock DP, 3" cat and a side dump ahead of the rear tire no muffler. Sounded great. A bit loud at full throttle but fun.

So, have you installed your new exhaust system yet?
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: DP removal

Re: DP removal

Well pssttt. Can't, as yet anyway, get 2 of the 3 studs out. I'll play with it some more but I suspect I'll have to take it to work where I have access to much more equipment. Meaning a big vise, acetylene torch ect. With my limited equipment I'd just end up breaking it or me.:squint:

With luck I'll get it back together for racing on Wed.:tup:

I'll keep ya posted.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: DP removal

Re: DP removal

Just a little update. Broke 2 of the studs getting them out. But porting is almost done and the studs will get drilled tomorrow. At the same time the 3" DP will get clearanced for the socket head cap screws. (One or two are just a bit tight next to the pipe.) All for free BTW at my work. One of the perks from knowing the boss for more than 50 years...:tup: Sure helps to have a fully equipped shop with a knowledagable/experienced metal worker who's getting a kick out of doing something a bit different.

When it's done and I start assembly I'll post some pics, not that you haven't seen this install before.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: DP removal

Re: DP removal

First mock-up. It all fit. DP -does- come up against the IC bracket. Prolly will just tap a little dent into the DP for clearance. Not sure. Bottom piece of DP went right in without the heat-shield in place so that might change. It is a snug fit but, fingers crossed, it looks good.

Down%20pipe%20on%20turbo%20from%20side.jpg


Turbo inlet:
Turbo%20inlet%20mod.JPG


Turbo WG notice 4th bolt hole:

Turbo%20wastgate%20mod.jpg
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: DP removal & install w/pics

It's in!

Looks like -0- clearance between pipe and top of frame but there's about 1/16 there. With solid mounts I think I'll be OK.

Different clamp some of you may not have seen. The plan (hope?) is to make removal easier. But it's all in. Haven't fired it yet, wheel wells, bat, ect yet to go. Also the tail pipe is still "muffler shop bends" IE not mandrel. I intend to change that although not sure how much difference it makes on 4' of tail pipe.

Down%20pipe%20with%20clamp.JPG
 

SY2455

70's Veteran
Re: DP removal & install w/pics

Don, What cat are you using with the JSM downpipe? Are you getting the RPM cat back exhaust for an all stainness steel system?
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: DP removal & install w/pics

Well whatever name is on the cat is on the top side and I ain't taking it apart. :rotf: However I can swing by the muffler shop next week and find out. Haven't decided on RPM's setup yet, a bit pricey but sure is purdy. Next step will be to go by that muffler shop and see what it costs to make a pipe from mandrel bends in their shop. Also don't know, since I haven't fired it yet, if the sound is gonna change. I liked it like it was but if it gets much louder I'll have to do something.

Can't wait for racing on Wed. to see if all this work made any difference. :roll:
 

JSM

Active member
Re: DP removal & install w/pics

Loosen the 4 bolts on the turbo, and you can probably get some to a lot of clearance on the frame. Just a small degree change on turbo will equal a big change at bottom.

It is very funny how my jigs duplicate the pipe the same, yet each truck comes out so different.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: DP removal & install w/pics

JS Manufacturing said:
Loosen the 4 bolts on the turbo, and you can probably get some to a lot of clearance on the frame. Just a small degree change on turbo will equal a big change at bottom.

It is very funny how my jigs duplicate the pipe the same, yet each truck comes out so different.

Hadn't thought of that, I'll give it a try. Not to worried about it though.

Ain't that the truth. Mfg tolerances at the factory, would be my guess. Ain't nothing' new. Back in the day I bought a trans adapter that put the clutch shaft just to far enough into the pilot bearing to fry the rear main thrust brng. Clutch itself worked just fine. Oh well...
 
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