I am screwed!

SY2455

70's Veteran
Re: I am screwed!

Black Knight said:
Hey Gary, if you want my opinion I know it sucks azz, but I would sell that one and buy one that is supposed to be for that exhaust housing. I would just hate to see you cut that one up and then something not work, and if you cut it up you'll never be able to sell it to anyone. Just my thoughts bud, I know that's not what you want to hear, but it's probably for the best.

X 2 what he said. This may sound bad, but I don't mean it that way. Gary I want to thank you for taking this big step as this is what I was thinking of doing, but now I know it won't work unless the turbo exhaust housing can be reclock.
 

WyoSyclone

Active member
Re: I am screwed!

I think I'd have to x3 this one Gary. Plus, if that spacer wasn't in there it would cure your problem with the heater box and your firewall - that spacer is really throwing everything off. :2cents:
I know this really sucks... you just want to get it together, and looking right.
Maybe someone else here can chime in with the correct DP for that turbo.
 

gjp

another post whore
Re: I am screwed!

X4. After Thinking hard about it I will go back to the stock DP. I think I found one localy. Thanks guys. But now I need a new turbo housing for the stock DP.
 

WyoSyclone

Active member
Re: I am screwed!

Do you mean a new turbo housing so that the wastegate will have a pathway to blowoff through?
My only other thought was in looking at the turbo flange that RPM shows on their website.. does that fit your turbo? If so, you could take your JS downpipe, bandsaw the pipe from the flange, and weld the RPM flange to the JS downpipe, ensuring it's clocked correctly. But, that would only work if that flange is designed for your turbo, plus the added thickness of the spacer causes that air box interference...
What a pain in the butt, huh?!?!
 

George Blake

DONATING MEMBER
Re: I am screwed!

It looks like you know what you need. Why don't you just make an image and send it to Renz. This is obviously a project vehicle. Let Mike make you something that works for your setup and you'll also be helping others as those that have the upgraded 3" JS downpipe could then do the RPM upgrade in the future. You'd be giving up a lot going with a 2.5 to 2.25" stock diamter downpipe. If you look at the stocker, it gets REALLY pinched in a few spots. The upgraded turbo you got would really be choked by it.
 

gjp

another post whore
Re: I am screwed!

George Blake said:
It looks like you know what you need. Why don't you just make an image and send it to Renz. This is obviously a project vehicle. Let Mike make you something that works for your setup and you'll also be helping others as those that have the upgraded 3" JS downpipe could then do the RPM upgrade in the future. You'd be giving up a lot going with a 2.5 to 2.25" stock diamter downpipe. If you look at the stocker, it gets REALLY pinched in a few spots. The upgraded turbo you got would really be choked by it.
I know George. Thats why I waited so long for this pipe. I just dont want to wait forever for something that I still dont know will work. This was suposed to be a low 12 fun truck. Not a project like it turned into. Thats why the first post in "my SMALL project" thread only had a few things I was going to do.
I found a new stock DP and will go with that. This just means a larger turbo upgrade with DP in the future. I guess.
 

Syclone Rob

Its all ABOOT the SYTY eh
Re: I am screwed!

I may go the route and cut off the first part of the DP and weld in a new one with the proper flange if the attempt at a proper adapter cannot be made. I will keep you all posted as this progress with me.... Or of there is a 3" stainless dp what will bolt up to cambell's automotive turbo (can't remember the bolt pattern, will update this info tomorrow night)
 

MikeRenz

not stock
Re: I am screwed!

i'd just cut it off where its a normal round pipe...then you can spin it there and reweld it once it's at the proper angle.
 

MRKING

New Parts for Old Trucks
Re: I am screwed!

You already have everything you need to get your truck on the road , and I wouldnt sell or buy anything if you was me .You got all this stuff because you really wanted it , coating included .

Almost any muffler shop can reweld your dp when you cut it to rotate it for clearance . Cut it as low as possible and I doubt the patch-job will stand out at all .
 

Flyin Ryan

hated cuz he drives fords
Re: I am screwed!

MikeRenz said:
i'd just cut it off where its a normal round pipe...then you can spin it there and reweld it once it's at the proper angle.

that's exactly what i had to do with my stock dp in order to use the rpm turbo which is the pictures i posted and the suggestion I gave on page two of this thread.. I personally would sell the jsm dp and put a stocker back on.. weld in an exhaust cut out and be done with it.. I remember madmike running mid 11s in his syclone with stock dp... if you need the extra flow of the dp then use a cutout until you have the time/money to jump into a bigger turbo and dp combo
 

Ian Turgeon

Cascading Inspiration
Re: I am screwed!

gjp said:
found a way to make it work sort of. First of all I have to ask a few questions.
1) how close is the DP to the frame as it passes under the firewall. Mine is less then a 1/4 inch.
2) more important, it sits real close to the bottom of the cab. Anyone have pic of the dp as it sits by the transmission? Thanks


1: VERY Close, 1/4 sounds right, my dads was that close, mine hit and required some clearancing (could be my truck or my original engine mounts)

2: its pretty close to the heat shield

gallery: http://www.sytyarchives.com/gallery/v/sy2424/jsmdp/

DSCN0704.JPG


DSCN0705.JPG


DSCN0689.JPG

DSCN0706.JPG


DSCN0655.JPG
 

wantingasy

Active member
Re: I am screwed!

MikeRenz said:
i'd just cut it off where its a normal round pipe...then you can spin it there and reweld it once it's at the proper angle.

MRKING said:
You already have everything you need to get your truck on the road , and I wouldnt sell or buy anything if you was me .You got all this stuff because you really wanted it , coating included .

Almost any muffler shop can reweld your dp when you cut it to rotate it for clearance . Cut it as low as possible and I doubt the patch-job will stand out at all .
:werd: and :werd: Just cut, rotate, and weld. You have EVERYTHING you need to get-r-dun!!! :2cents:
 

gjp

another post whore
Re: I am screwed!

the part where it bolts to the turbo is off. The wastegate is in a different spot if you look at the first pic. just cutting and rotating will not work. the flange will have to be reclocked and new holes put into it.I bought a stock new DP but still might use the JS. I have a friend that works at a muffler shop. I will see what he thinks. after looking at the two Dp's side by side I can see why this pipe would make a big difference.
 

gjp

another post whore
Re: I am screwed!

Got a New DP saturday before I left town.
This is going to cost a lot to coat and add a bung and cat.
What a big difference. This sucks going backwards
Picture1602.jpg
 

wantingasy

Active member
Re: I am screwed!

Can you call up Mike and see about getting a new housing for your turbo that will mount up to the JS downpipe? Swap out the one you have now? Or possibly a bigger turbo with a different housing....hmmm.....that will mount up to the JS DP :lol:
 

gjp

another post whore
Re: I am screwed!

I found a turbo that will work. Its a nice 60-1 with a stock housing. But I just got this turbo. Not sure if Mike will take it back. Mike said he cant do nothing to help. I could mount the stock on and try to find someone to make me a custom flange. I talked to the dmv and I can get a 30 day extension.
 

wantingasy

Active member
Re: I am screwed!

That sounds good. Run your stage 2 with a stock DP until a flange is made up. Just don't weld your exhaust together yet....LOL....Then sell the stock DP to fund the flange

P.S.- Don't ever think about buying a roush again :squint:
 

ghettosled

SYTY SUPERSTORE
Re: I am screwed!

Given your position, your best bet is to have a custom adaptor flange made to work with the JS downpipe. SOunds like a PITA, but probably the most logical solution. Modifying your existing flanges and/or welding them together will only present future problems, i.e. leaks etc.
 

gjp

another post whore
Re: I am screwed!

Had a friend who works at a muffler shop look at it today. He said to grind down the flange flush with the pipe and weld the RPM adaptor on to use as a new flange. The mounting holes on the DP and the turbo are close that an adaptor wont work. 2 holes are 1/2 on each other. He said a new flange would need to be made but just use the addaptor as it.?? Again I dont know... I get different things from all you guys, Some say sell, some say keep....some say cut it and others say dont.

The big question is would it be a big loss to run a stock dp on the rpm turbo??
 
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