stroker cranks...3.48, 3.50, 3.75 ... differences?! ---

alwayscode390

pppssssshhhhhtttttttttttt
I am not familiar with what stroker is good for a mild build in these engines. I am going to have a custom cam, ported l35's with big valves, pte63, atr headers, a/a, meth, and a 3" cutout. Would I benefit more from a certain stroke?

I believe my lt1 is a 6" rod with a 3.75 stroke to get the 383 cubes being overbored.....is that the same route I wanna go with this engine....or is the 3.48 better for some reason? Should I go 5.7 or 6.0 rods? It better be an EVENFIRE crank for the 4.3 right?! Thanks ---
 

10secTy

Sy-Ty builder and Tuner
Re: stroker cranks...3.48, 3.50, 3.75 ... differences?! ---

Unless you want to spend $3000us on a billet crank you basically have one choice, stock.

If you have no budget then get a 3.75 billet evenfire with 2.10 rod pins. On street driven I would probley stay with a 5.7 rod so the rings are not in the pin boss.

For your build stock will work just fine.

Nolan


alwayscode390 said:
I am not familiar with what stroker is good for a mild build in these engines. I am going to have a custom cam, ported l35's with big valves, pte63, atr headers, a/a, meth, and a 3" cutout. Would I benefit more from a certain stroke?

I believe my lt1 is a 6" rod with a 3.75 stroke to get the 383 cubes being overbored.....is that the same route I wanna go with this engine....or is the 3.48 better for some reason? Should I go 5.7 or 6.0 rods? It better be an EVENFIRE crank for the 4.3 right?! Thanks ---
 

alwayscode390

pppssssshhhhhtttttttttttt
Re: stroker cranks...3.48, 3.50, 3.75 ... differences?! ---

Stock sounds fine, but I am having a hard time dishing out $700 just for a hardened crank. Hoping to get a used billet for $2k ... so atleast I can justify the extra $1300 for the performance upgrade, lol ...thanks :) ---

ps right now I have only found deals on the 3.48's ... I wonder why people chose that stroke? I also wonder why they made a 3.48 and a 3.50 ... what would the difference be, lol?! ---
 

ghettosled

SYTY SUPERSTORE
Re: stroker cranks...3.48, 3.50, 3.75 ... differences?! ---

you're wasting money on a billet crank with your build.. Not sure where you are finding stock cranks for $700, but for $575 we have them outright, fully machined, nitrided, straightened and designed to hold bearing tolerances to the .001" (there is only 1 place in socal that has the capabilities to do cranks like this, so its not your average machine shop turn and polish).

put your money into your trans and better heads.
 

alwayscode390

pppssssshhhhhtttttttttttt
Re: stroker cranks...3.48, 3.50, 3.75 ... differences?! ---

OK you guys totally made me realize to pass on the stroker crank.

I will get an RPM crank when I make my big purchase soon, and I should go with a set of 5.7 h-beams ... and SRP forged 8.5 compression pistons right?!

Do you recommend a .020 or .030 overbore for an engine with 67k miles getting a rebuild?! Whats the benefit to one over the other?! THANKS Nolan and Mike ---
 
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Syborg Twin Turbo

Syborg Twin Turbo
Re: stroker cranks...3.48, 3.50, 3.75 ... differences?! ---

i agree with Mike - he is telling you the truth.

also very important is a good tune. If your tune sucks you can hurt the motor
 

ghettosled

SYTY SUPERSTORE
Re: stroker cranks...3.48, 3.50, 3.75 ... differences?! ---

well larger bore will make more power (eseentially bigger c.i.), however shorten the potential lifespan on the block. So best thing to do is have your block machined or check to see if it will clean up at .020 or .030, some that were hurt may need to go 4.040 if there is a nick in the cylinder bore.. Then once you have the pistons you can hone it to the actual piston size, and allow for the recommended piston to wall clearance..

SRP is recommended for daily riven street motors, JE has an extreme duty piston that is recommended for high boost applications.
 
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