Pulled the heads WTF pics*

Re: Pulled the heads WTF pics*

I've learned a few things from this exchange. Thanks to those that helped me with my continuing education.

I get the impression the OP hasn't even looked at the info contained within. Much less understood it. And no, it wasn't I that added that tag to the thread. But it's an appropriate one.

Why dont you think I understand? I have been on this forum for a few years now. I have been watching the posts all day and reading them all. I understand that #6 cylinder is Fed up. I understand that the lifter retainer is not original to year 1991. I understand that I need to pull the block. I understand what you guys are saying about the valve seats. I personally think its hard to tell from the pictures but I think the valves look the same on all three. Does not matter they are going to the machine shop either way; that your sold.
Im a little surprised that you think Im not paying attention. It is my motor after all.
I even have some numbers off the head and block.
DSCN0031.jpg

I cant really make out the block casting numbers but it looks like 14699073.
DSCN0042.jpg
 

Syclone'D916

Syclone Owner #2414
Re: Pulled the heads WTF pics*

I removed the head out of curiosity. Im planning on running high boost this spring an a new head gasket vs the 20 year old one didnt sound to bad.
Would you guys just replace the lifters a hone the heads and just run with it? If she goes she goes? My gut feeling says that piston is fine. How effective are the Vortecs without a cam.
Do I really need another cam if i replace the lifters because of wear?
What is the part number for the right lifters?

I used these lifter for mine,dont know if your going for a new motor or doing it yourself but worked for me. Not a GM# there trick flow. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-21400002/
 

Syclone #1721

I LOVE 4UM SUPERSTARS
Re: Pulled the heads WTF pics*

ANother sign of a mass produced rebuild is the green valve keeper. We also used to use them from a company called Classic Keepers. They would install the valve spring .050 tighter to make up for the tired out stock re-used valve spring. As for those pistons, we used to use hundreds and hundreds of them. They were a hypereutectic dished piston from Federal Mogul part # H580P. They were commonly used in 350 with 305 heads to keep the compression correct but are practically an exact replacement piston for Sy 4.3s. They are fairly cheap and easy to obtain. oh, they are available in 010, 020, 030, 040 060 and STD. Im leaning toward mass rebuild...just my :2cents:
 

Syclone #1721

I LOVE 4UM SUPERSTARS
Re: Pulled the heads WTF pics*

Interesting.

A 350 piston will fit in a 4.3, but the pin end of the rod will be very close to one side of the piston pin-boss when used in a 4.3. 4.3 pistons are relieved on one side to compensate for the wider big-end spacing necessitated by the staggered crankshaft journals. But you knew that.

More info for future 'investigation' upon tear-down. Good Stuff.

Look, youre obviously an eductated guy...no one is doubting that but its possible that somone might know as much as you in some areas if not maybe, just maybe a tiny bit more. Regardless, the remanufacturing business was my proffessional occupation and I have quite a bit of knowledge in that field. The piston works in a 4.3 as well as does the 423NP both part numbered as 350 pistons. This is common practice for large remanufacturers such as Jasper, ATK, Marshalls, Promar, etc. Sure the rod comes close on the pin end but it doesnt make contact and thats all that it needs. Our plant produced 10s of thousands of 4.3s like this with no issues. In fact, the L2441F that you referenced in a previous post that many people use in SYTY engines are cataloged as 350 pistons.........but you knew that,

This is definitely good stuff.
 

Syclone #1721

I LOVE 4UM SUPERSTARS
Re: Pulled the heads WTF pics*

Why do people **** with me? I wasn't ****ing with you.
And go **** yourself with that subtitle.

Go ahead and be the Forumn Superstar. I don't give a ****. See ya'll in three weeks.

:rotf:....Dave, are u honestly telling me that the quote "but you knew that" was not a shot at me...paaaaaalease....Im just stating the obvious...no need to go psycho....I mean you attacked the OP for no reason and Ive seen you attack people in other posts in the past for no reason one of them being a moderator...youre no angel...you can curse, pull your posts and get mad all you want but the bottom line is you have a god complex dude and with all due respect, i dont care who gets mad at me for saying this....i see people on here walkin on eggshells around you but sorry, thats just not me....I meant no harm to you...you drew first blood...I just finished it..... SYTYs FOREVER!!!!:rock:
 
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dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Pulled the heads WTF pics*

Im a little surprised that you think Im not paying attention. It is my motor after all. I even have some numbers off the head and block.

It's seems like you ask questions, people give you advice and you do your own thing anyways. I remember poeple telling you to turn down your boost, earlier in this thread many peoplke said you have a rebuilt or replacement motor and it seem like you were still going on as if you have your original untouched motor.

Check the VIN on the driver side rear pad or for the date on the passenger front pad (DaveP explained this a few posts up)

Even in this post, you post the casting numbers. No one asked for the casting numbers. Casting number don't help, for the engine block tell you have a 87-94 engine block. If you search on the part number you should have been able to figure it out. If you didn't know where the VIN or Date codes were, you could asked, search DaveP and myself have a few posts about. I know that post could have been a little better explained but no one want to spend a bunch of time explaining everything if no one is listening.
 

bezerk

New member
Re: Pulled the heads WTF pics*

this is one funny, cool thread. keep em coming,
i have to agree on the part that rookie asks something, maybe even in 100 different threads gets the same asnwer, and than starts discussing them, and does the opposit. that's cool with me.
doing everything different sure is different, but doing everything upside down is just ..........

best of luck with your rebuild. i would bring it to the ford guys and let them do everything in the truck. and crank up the boost.

IMPORTANT INFO BELOW
images


one small tip. if you really are intrested, because this one is golden.
if you don''t want to spent the money. listen...buy a newer style 4.3 engine with real vortecs. buy a modiefied lower intake, do some work on the heads, and run lower boost.. you could have a really fast engine wich almost does 240hp N/A for around 1k. in the mean time you can let this topic be alive, and discuss all kind of crazy stuff.

PLEASE READ 'THE ABOVE
 

UR50SLO

V6+2=LSXCamaro
Re: Pulled the heads WTF pics*

the bottom line is you have a god complex dude and with all due respect, i dont care who gets mad at me for saying this....

I stayed up with him almost all night at the Sy/Ty nats working on Harmons truck and I didn't go to bed thinking I spent all night with god.... Well maby I did... he stuck it out... we all went as far as possible to figure out with out a doubt it was the injector screwing up.. then the MSD died in the morning.. Sometimes gods can't figure out Syclones!

We are getting way off ballance here trying to help this guy out.. and that's what it comes down to.
Looking at pictures does not tell the entire story. Somethings might look damaged just from the photo angle.
The most important thing is not to let this happen again. It's expensive and time consuming. When it get's back together let's have a good thread about what we are going to tune this with and how long it lives!!!!
And have a back together Party!
collegeparty.jpg


one small tip. if you really are intrested, because this one is golden.
if you don''t want to spent the money. listen...buy a newer style 4.3 engine with real vortecs. buy a modiefied lower intake, do some work on the heads, and run lower boost.. you could have a really fast engine wich almost does 240hp N/A for around 1k. in the mean time you can let this topic be alive, and discuss all kind of crazy stuff.

PLEASE READ 'THE ABOVE
That's good advice right there... :)
 
Re: Pulled the heads WTF pics*

That is my thought aswell. Did you do a leak down before removing the heads?

No, I should have though. It would have been nice to see a before and after.

i have to agree on the part that rookie asks something, maybe even in 100 different threads gets the same asnwer, and than starts discussing them, and does the opposit. that's cool with me.
doing everything different sure is different, but doing everything upside down is just ..........

best of luck with your rebuild. i would bring it to the ford guys and let them do everything in the truck. and crank up the boost.

Bezerk I keep asking questions and posting different scenarios to get reasoning behind answers. Im the type of person that likes to gather as much as I can and generate as much discission as I can. Just because someone tells me to do one thing does not mean you do it without questioning. Im starting to think my motor was bad when I got it. It had that lifter noise/rod slap when I bought it.

Im not taking my truck to the Ford guys. My friend just took a picture of the cylinder and asked the mechanics what they thought about it.

When it get's back together let's have a good thread about what we are going to tune this with and how long it lives!!!!

Im going to work with Nolan on a tune. I don’t want to make a mistake trying to do it myself.

Even in this post, you post the casting numbers. No one asked for the casting numbers. Casting number don't help, for the engine block tell you have a 87-94 engine block. If you search on the part number you should have been able to figure it out. If you didn't know where the VIN or Date codes were, you could asked, search DaveP and myself have a few posts about. I know that post could have been a little better explained but no one want to spend a bunch of time explaining everything if no one is listening.

We know it’s not original. It needs to get pulled and inspected to even know what I have going on. I stated in my previous posts that IM GOING TO PULL THE MOTOR and see what I have to work with.

Again thanks for everyone that posted and took interest in my motor. I will keep everyone posted what I find as long as everyone keeps their ego trips at bay.
Everyone needs to be a little more open and patient with different members with different skill level if you want much of a syty group in the future. Things are also misinterpreted when its not face to face.
 

Icarus-54

Donating Old Member
Re: Pulled the heads WTF pics*

I've taken apart 2 93 tys,one had the early spider,one had the later.The funny thing is that the vin #'s were oposite.The later spider was on the earlier vin,(low 300's),and the earlier one was on a late vin,(2400's).Both trucks were untouched virgins.To see a late spider in a sy would mean it's not the original motor as the late spider was'nt used until very late 92 to early 93 in non balance shaft motors.
Jack
 

Osmosis

New member
Re: Pulled the heads WTF pics*

Which year of a vortech engine should this guy be looking for and out of what vehicles (and year) did the vortech V-6 engines come out of? IF he decides to go this route, this info would help him out significanlty:tup:

If you do the Vortech swap, definatley keep all of your stock parts. These trucks are becoming more & more rare. A part's matching collector car is worth a ton more than a non matching car.
 

REVEREND HARMON

Party in a box!
Re: Pulled the heads WTF pics*

I've taken apart 2 93 tys,one had the early spider,one had the later.The funny thing is that the vin #'s were oposite.The later spider was on the earlier vin,(low 300's),and the earlier one was on a late vin,(2400's).Both trucks were untouched virgins.To see a late spider in a sy would mean it's not the original motor as the late spider was'nt used until very late 92 to early 93 in non balance shaft motors.
Jack

Keep in mind the typhoons where not completed in sequential order. Number 200 could have been done before number 1.
 
Re: Pulled the heads WTF pics*

Here a little info for you.

That engine was assembled June 11, 1992. It is an "2LD" which is a genuine 1992 model-year SyTy engine. It may or may not have been installed in a production car. You need to look at the VIN pad above the oil filter. If no VIN, but the circular marks are present, it is a service replacement. If the circular marks are gone too, then the pad has been "cleaned", probably by a re-builder. which means it was probably a vehichle installed engine.

I also see a June 4 1992 casting date on one cyl head. That head was more than likely put on that block by the Romulus Assembly plant. The dates are too 'correct'. The head precedes the assembly date by a week. That's just right.

If you can find a VIN, it was originally installed in a late model year 92 Typhoon. But it is a genuine "LD" SyTy engine.
 

1madgumby

New member
Re: Pulled the heads WTF pics*

They are NOT in order by vin. like the syclone.

I'm positive the VIN's were issued in sequence. I've done some research using VIN, ship date, received date, and final ship date from the 92 listings on Sportmachines where this information is available. Now, whether they were shipped out of PAS in sequence, or sold in sequence, of course not.

As far as early vs late engines being in opposite cars, that is entirely possible, although it is not generally the practice. Sure, sometimes engines get 'old' before they are finally installed in a vehichle, but once again this is not common. In Corvette Judging, we accept engine assy dates up to 6 months prior to car build date, without deduction, however 1 month is typical. There are some known exceptions to this rule. (L88's and 71 ZR2) And I'm seeing the same thing with Typhoons: The engine date is about a month prior to car build date.
 
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