Correct torque converter?

G

Gtdhw

New member
I have a bone stock Sonoma GT that after 160K miles and lots (and I mean lots) of line- lock burnouts, has slowly faded away in the pep department. The tranny still shifts nice and stiff and the two tranny shops that have driven it, tell me it's not the tranny. I figure the converter is tired. Compressioon test holds 122-125 for all six cylinders, my oil still looks new when 3K is up, and my engine light is never on (yes, it does work), 50k miles ago it would sit and spin with no brake, then grab and chirp them in second everytime. Now, not hardly. But the truck runs great, except it has always had a rough idle.

I wanted to keep the truck all stock. But I wasn't sure if GM had used a different converter than in the regular Sonomas in conjunction with the factory shift kit. So, I called GM. The parts guy said there were no seperate part #'s or info for the converter in the '92 4L60, and that the converters were discontinued anyway,

My question is, now that factory is not an option, can anyone tell me anything about the factory converter specs (stahl?) so I can match with aftermarket accordingly?
 
silverblaz

silverblaz

Member
Re: Correct torque converter?

You can do what i did if you want a little higher stall and use a corvette converter which is about 2100 stall its very streetable and gives you that little extra


if you want i have one for sale i used it for 100 km then i blew up my engine and i am changing to a larger turbo and need a higher stall converter as well so if you are interested let me know
 
G

Gtdhw

New member
Re: Correct torque converter?

I have no problem with a "little extra". My thing is with 160k, I am not too interested in finding the weak point in my tranny/driveline. At least not yet. This is my first year racing it for points at the the local strip.
 
silverblaz

silverblaz

Member
Re: Correct torque converter?

With that amount of Miles on the truck anything could go at anytime so its up to you i mean if i was in your position i would keep what you have and drive to the breaking point so you dont put a new converter on and break the trans down the road and have all that shit go in the converter.
 
G

Gtdhw

New member
Re: Correct torque converter?

Thanks DaveP. I knew this was the place to come..................
 
G

Gtdhw

New member
Re: Correct torque converter?

great stuff! I am one who was not aware of this valve.I will be perfoming that check in the morning! If one was not familiar with this truck, they could hop in, drive it for however long, and not notice anything at all wrong. But, when I drive it at WOT, sometimes it feels right and sometimes it feels like I have a big rubber band holding me back, but mostly it is a mix of the two the whole time at WOT.
 
G

Gtdhw

New member
Re: Correct torque converter?

DaveP. I ran the test, and the Valve passes. Clunk/tick every time A & B are jumped. So I guess I'm good to go there.
 
NecroWolf

NecroWolf

lost marbles member
Re: Correct torque converter?

your compression test is low. even our low compresion turbo motors test higher than that in good shape. i'd say your motor is just worn out.
 
G

Gtdhw

New member
Re: Correct torque converter?

NecroWolf said:
your compression test is low. even our low compresion turbo motors test higher than that in good shape. i'd say your motor is just worn out.
Click to expand...



I had to scratch my head after reading this. I did the compression test about 6 months ago and was just hoping that I got the numbers mixed up in head. I just went out and re-ran the test. Yep, I had the numbers wrong in my head for some reason. The range is from 142-148 psi.
 
G

Gtdhw

New member
Re: Correct torque converter?

DaveP said:
Sounds like your OK on the tuning valve. :tup:

I re-read the symptoms, and now I'm wondering about fuel pump / pressure? Especially at WOT.
Click to expand...

About 6 months ago was when I decided to start looking for the robbed performance. I started with the fuel pump. It tested within the factory specs (whatever they are, I'm not worth a crap for remembering #s), and there was no bleeedoff. I am not sure how to perform a WOT test though. I went ahead and changed it out with an AC Delco figuring with the high miles, it couldn't hurt. I also did a complete tune up (plugs,wires, cap, rotor, coil, O2 sensor, belt, FF, hoses, etc, etc..........................No change. (Except, I learned that with Bosch 4 way plugs, my rough idle vanished:D, but my power was very much down:(. I replaced with AC Delco's and all was normal again. I also know there are no converter issues either;)
 
NecroWolf

NecroWolf

lost marbles member
Re: Correct torque converter?

numbers still look low, might try a leak down. i would still guess weak rings. probably time for rings and bearings. you could then boost the compresion and swap the cam and intake. on a side note have you checked the spider injector and fp regulator? easiest way i believe would be to pull the upper intake and check and see if its wet or dry. if its wet your spider injector is leaking. best fix for that is a marine intake that takes normal injectors.
 
G

Gtdhw

New member
Re: Correct torque converter?

The spider was inspected at the same time the pump was replaced. All was well.

The first stokes were a little weak, but no too bad (about115 psi). So I am sure the rings are a little worn. The book that I have says anything above a 100psi. passes as OK. Is my book fibbing to me?
 
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turbodig

turbodig

Active member
Re: Correct torque converter?

Gtdhw said:
The spider was inspected at the same time the pump was replaced. All was well.

The first stokes were a little weak, but no too bad (about115 psi). So I am sure the rings are a little worn. The book that I have says anything above a 100psi. passes as OK. Is my book fibbing to me?
Click to expand...

142 psi on a 9.x:1 motor with 160k doesn't sound bad to me at all. I bet if you run a couple cans of top end clean through it, it'd get better yet.

Leakdown is a better indication of condition, however.
 
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